NEW YORK — Funeral services were held Feb. 20 for longtime furrier Harold Schwartz, who died earlier that day in his Fifth Avenue apartment at the age of 96.
An industrious person, the lifetime New Yorker was a high schooler when he started out in the fur industry as a means to give his younger brother Fred the opportunity to go to college. The rolling racks and then bustling sidewalks of the garment center were not exactly new terrain for his family — Schwartz’ father worked as a laborer in the fur industry. In turn, as the decades passed, the younger Schwartz attained his own success by running the fur departments at Bloomingdale’s and other major retailers and launching The Fur Vault. After taking The Fur Vault public in 1984, Harold Schwartz helped his sons Andrew and Ira launch their outerwear companies — Andrew Marc Leather and Free Country, respectively.
Harold Schwartz died in his sleep and had not been suffering from any illnesses, according to his son Ira. Born in New York City to Ukrainian immigrants, Schwartz grew up in the Bronx with his brother Fred, who later started the company “Fred the Furrier.” Ira Schwartz explained, “He helped Fred go to college by going to work, and not going to college [himself]. He helped support his family in the fur business. The options were pretty limited. They didn’t have much money.”
Just 18 when he started his first company, Mademoiselle Furs, Harold Schwartz did that “more out of need than having the luxury what he wanted,” Ira Schwartz said.
Fred Schwartz later repaid the favor for his City College degree by going to work for his brother, overseeing the retail side of the business, whereas Harold focused on the wholesale part. That venture was a long-standing one, considering that Mademoiselle was merged into The Fur Vault when the latter went public on the American Stock Exchange. In the late ’60s, the brothers had joined forces with the Union Square store S. Klein to run the fur department. After that retailer closed in the mid-’70s, they linked with Alexander’s department store and later Bloomingdale’s to sell their Northern Lights label.
After branching out to other cities, The Fur Vault went public in 1984 with reported sales of $50 million. At that point the sixtysomething Schwartz was in the “third third of his career,” but he continued to work for six or seven years, Ira Schwartz said. In 1983, he had spurred on his son Andrew with the debut of his leatherwear company Andrew Marc. And in 1989, he shared that entrepreneurial encouragement with his son Ira, who launched Free Country. Harold Schwartz’ eldest son Stuart had joined Mademoiselle Furs years before.
“Believing in yourself, working, being your own boss and perseverance were the major qualities” that he instilled in his sons, Ira Schwartz said. Over time, Andrew Marc’s annual business exceeded $75 million or $80 million, and Free Country’s current volume is about $200 million.
At its peak in the ’80s, The Fur Vault developed into an estimated $200 million business. After the animal rights movement started to put a dent in the sector, The Fur Vault was sold to South Korea’s Jindo Corp. for $15 million.
“Deeply connected” to his family, the patriarch enjoyed ski weekends in Vermont and backyard tennis matches in the summer. Like his late brother, Schwartz was committed to philanthropy. A founding member of the Hampton Synagogue, he supported such Jewish charities as the Migdal Ohr and the United Jewish Appeal. In addition to his sons, Schwartz, whose marriage to his wife Marilyn ended in divorce, is survived by their daughter, Barbara Gutman.
The fashion brand on Tuesday released an AI-designed denim collection that was created with AI app Midjourney. With the app, G-Star Raw created 12 cape-like denim designs and ultimately manufactured one style, which will be displayed at the brand’s Antwerp store.
“Innovation is ingrained in the G-Star DNA,” said Gwenda van Vliet, chief merchandising officer at G-Star Raw. “We believe in giving our fashion designers the freedom to bring their dreams through AI. While anyone could make a design using AI, at G-Star Raw we have the craftsmanship to make those designs into real garments. We should see AI as enhancing the creative process, rather than taking it over.”
G-Star Raw’s AI-designed denim collection falls in line with the recent wave of AI technology infiltrating the fashion industry. There have been apps such as Midjourney and Stable Diffusion, which are art and image generators, and ChatGPT, which generates elaborate written responses based on a user’s prompt.
While these AI platforms are still new to the fashion world, some companies have already started embracing them. For example, Pantone looked to Midjourney last December to create an immersive visual experience for its 2023 Pantone color of the year, Viva Magenta.
SHANGHAI — The physical return of Shanghai Fashion Week after China reopened to the world saw team members from Harrods, Galeries Lafayette and Machine-A coming back to check out how local talents, who mostly focused on the Chinese market over the past three years, have evolved.
The atmosphere this season felt drastically different from how things were pre-pandemic, a time when local young talents were struggling with pricing, production and supply chains like the rest of the world.
Thanks to a fashion boutique boom during the pandemic, where buying internationally became almost impossible, local designers seized the opportunity and transformed their businesses to cater better to local demand.
Brands such as Xiao Li, Xuzhi, Renli Su and 8on8, whose founders were trained at top fashion schools like Central Saint Martins and Royal College of Art, now are able to sell to retailers at competitive price points that are around half of what their global peers are asking because of near-shore sourcing and manufacturing.
Now that the in-person communication between East and West has resumed, many of them express the desire to return to the international fashion calendar, only this time with much healthier businesses at home to fund the showcase.
The Chongqing-based designer Louis Shengtao Chen, a semifinalist in this year’s LVMH Prize, is looking for a Paris-based public relations firm to work on his possible Paris showcase.
“I’m looking forward to being in a very culturally bumping environment where designs are presented in an aggressive way. I don’t mean aggressive negatively, but to be very sharp and sure of themselves, both visually and in the form of presentation,” Chen said.
Meanwhile, on their own turf here in Shanghai, a handful of brands proved that they are able to stage elevated shows with collections that are Milan or Paris-worthy.
Oude Waag, an avant-garde fashion brand founded in 2017 by Royal College of Art alum Jingwei Yin, had models wearing Dune-like creations walking around two giant oval installations hung on the ceiling. The collection showcased his precise proportions, and how fabric interacts with the body when moving.
Yin said the collection was inspired by colorful marble, a stone that serves as a metaphor for foreign conquest and a symbol of power and strength in the days of the Roman Empire.
“We combined its hard, cold elements with soft body parts to form a giant stone in organic form, which represents our understanding of the complexity of women today. We suspended it in the air of the show to create a futuristic and primitive atmosphere.
“We also developed these abstract marble prints on different textures to create soft armor that is both sexually charged and sculptural but also transformed into a second layer of soft skin that is the polar opposite, representing two distinctly feminine forces,” explained Yin post-show.
The designer added that he is eyeing presenting his next collection in Paris.
For Zhao Chenxi, founder of Fabric Qorn, a self-proclaimed “unapologetically Chinese” contemporary label that plays around with nostalgic kitsch, the showcase presented him with an opportunity to appreciate “the forgotten beauty in Chinese society and blur the lines between the grassroots and elite, high and low.”
Taking inspiration from the grassroots class in modern Chinese society. Zhao used a northern China red flower fabric as the lining of coats and jackets, and he deconstructed hotel towels from the ’80s to make shirts. He also used Chinese door handles on trenchcoats and gave the Mao suit a timely update for today’s wearers.
The show set was based on what a weekend farmer’s market looks like.
“We made installations like pick-up trucks, corn, coal piles, and all sorts of Chinese old items to match the theme. This sort of gathering gradually lost its meaning as the exchange of products and money goes online in this 5G era, but the market didn’t disappear. It’s still alive in rural parts of China because the market has a deeper meaning than just buying and selling. People who attend the farmer’s markets will talk for hours. This hustle and bustle of city life can’t be replaced by the internet,” he said.
Susan Fang took her misting dress idea, first presented in London, to a new level in Shanghai with an off-schedule show at the rooftop of the water-facing Yicang Art Museum, a place where Fang had wanted to show since 2019.
“For many years, I always hoped to do a show outdoors, and also in an art museum; it felt more connected to nature with an open space and more creative and modern energy in a museum. Yicang has this stunning view of the Shanghai skyline that’s super unique,” she said.
Fang styled the collection very differently for the repeat show, with more surreal hair and makeup, and cute shoes from her collaboration with Ugg. She also installed eight color-changing craters to create a feeling of misting clouds floating in the sky to add to the fantastical element of the showcase.
While the mist in London was blended with rose extract, the Shanghai edition was mixed with the new scent Lili Fantasy from Juliette Has a Gun, the French niche fragrance brand backed by the Cathay Capital private equity group.
“Our theme is Air-Topia, which it’s about a positive outlook for our future, inspired by this book for children called ‘Ami, Child of the Stars,’ where the law of the universe is love, and love should be the priority above technology, knowledge, everything. It was very inspiring and idealistic, and charming how it brings back our inner child and how we can embrace technology with positivity if we keep that imagination and love we are born with,” she said.
For the finale, to paint a picture of what that a love-embracing world would look like, a model walked out with all the children holding hands and wearing the designer’s debut kidswear line.
M Essential Noir, a successful local brand that opened Labelhood two seasons in a row, continued to explore the opulent nature of traditional Chinese aesthetics. Muki Ma, creative director of the brand, took inspiration from the British fantasy opera “The Tales of Hoffmann,” creating a “Dream Ball” with models in strappy sandals and flower pedals dangling from their eyelashes. Traditional Chinese garments, including qipao and Chinese jackets, were combined with high-waisted ballgowns that had exposed crinoline or corsets, which Ma called “semi-eveningwear.”
“We wanted to explore the underlying influence of Western culture on Eastern aesthetics and how it plays on in womenswear throughout history,” Ma said. “The Noir collection is a more girly version of the M Essential main line. Thus we could more freely explore the melange between Western codes and traditional Chinese garments.”
At showrooms such as Not Showroom, Tube Showroom and Ontimeshow’s Roomroom, local talents displayed thoughtful concepts paired with commercially friendly pieces which, to some extent, painted a better picture of what Shanghai has to offer.
Sakura Chan, a womenswear brand heavily inspired by the ’70s rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic, took a page from The Velvet Underground and Nick Cave this season.
“Rockers are all the same, they’re forever rebels, so I couldn’t help but see some similarities between the way Lou Reed and my boyfriend, the way they went about in the world,” said Chan of her partner Liu Ge, the lead singer of Beijing’s favorite underground band The Molds.
Chan designed a leather blazer akin to what Liu would wear at concerts but bleeding red silk throughout, to emulate how Liu would sometimes get into heated rows and hurt himself.
A tormented musician calls for a strong-minded woman to tame the beast. More leather jackets with rivets punched throughout, silk blouses that cinched tightly at the waist and super high-waisted sheer bodices completed the portrait of a tormented rocker’s girlfriend while the models were made up to look like their faces were bruised. “The theme of this collection is Jesus’ Ball & Chain,’ love can hold you captive, but sometimes it hurts you, yet you can’t let go,” Chan said.
Qiuhao, the first Chinese winner of the prestigious Woolmark Prize 15 years ago, has been stationed at the Roomroom by the West Bund for the past few years. His brand occupied an airy white cube that showcased his modern and minimal designs favored by powerful women.
The black and white collection, with dashes of red, continued to explore wardrobe staples such as turtleneck wool bodysuits, stretchy leather biker jackets and cocooning wool jackets that formed a fierce silhouette.
“For me, design is working through the essential pieces and refining the details,” said the designer of his namesake brand.
A fragrance collection crafted with the Chinese perfumer Yili Li and Qiu Hao’s partner, the perfume influencer Jun Huang, was also being presented at the brand’s showroom, adding a touch of romance to Qiu Hao’s expansive universe.
Untitlab, a footwear and accessories brand founded by Sans Peng, Tian Cai and Justin Zen, continued to play with a diverse range of materials and color stories in its latest collection.
Inspired by surfer shoes, flat sneakers with bold embossment allow the wearer to “feel the ground under your feet,” Peng said. “I like to walk around a lot in the city now that I live in London, so I designed a shoe that has a very thin sole. It’s also a slip-on, which is even more freeing.”
The brand’s bestselling derbies, cowboy boots, hitch boots and shoulder bags are all updated with a natural dyeing technique found in Yunnan province, which offers the wearer the freedom to oscillate between formal attires or “sporty vibes.”
The singer makes his debut for the brand in a new campaign wearing Calvin Klein’s spring 2023 collections. Photographed by Park Jong Ha, the campaign spotlights him in new styles, including the ’90s Straight denim and Body Jeans, Relaxed Fit Denim Shirt, Oversized Denim Jacket and Relaxed Fit Standard Logo Crewneck Tee.
Jonathan Bottomley, global chief marketing officer of Calvin Klein said, “We pride ourselves on identifying globally relevant talent whose cultural impact and values align with our own. Jung Kook is one of the world’s most popular artists; he possesses a rare ability to connect with international audiences through both his music and his style. We’re fortunate and excited to have him join the Calvin Klein team.”
“I have been a fan of Calvin Klein for a long time, and I’m thrilled to be their newest global ambassador,” said Jung Kook. “This partnership is very special, as Calvin Klein’s heritage and brand values resonate with me. My music is how I communicate with my fans around the world, and I see this partnership as an opportunity to connect with them in a new way. I’m incredibly excited for people to see a new side of me in this first campaign for the brand.”
In 2019, Jung Kook was the most-searched male K-pop idol on Google, and topped the chart again in 2020. He was the most searched K-pop idol on YouTube in 2019 and 2020.
The campaign launches globally on Tuesday.
BTS, which released its first album in 2013, shocked fans worldwide last June when it revealed the group, who consist of Jin, Suga, J-Hope, Jimin, V and Jung Kook, were taking a break to explore solo projects and complete their mandatory military service.
As reported, Calvin Klein’s spring campaign, directed and photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, also features a diverse cast of talent including Jennie Kim of Blackpink, Kendall Jenner, FKA Twigs, Michael B. Jordan and Aaron Taylor-Johnson.
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