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Saint Laurent Stays Home, Tiffany’s Miami Pop-up, Prada on the Slopes

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HOME BASE: Anthony Vaccarello, who has taken men’s collections for Saint Laurent on the road the last few years, will return to Paris for an IRL show during Men’s Fashion Week on Jan. 17, sources told WWD.

The venue and other details could not immediately be learned.

Men’s collections for fall 2023 are to be unveiled in the French capital from menswear from Jan. 17 to Jan. 22.

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Last July, Vaccarello mounted a spectacular display in the rolling desert outside of Marrakech, his models rounding a circular pool, out of which emerged an otherworldly ring, like a portal to another dimension.

He has also staged Saint Laurent men’s shows in Jersey City, New Jersey, Venice, Italy, and Malibu, California, in recent years.

Saint Laurent’s return to the French capital should give extra oomph to the Paris men’s shows, which have been gaining momentum in recent years.

The schedule has been bulging as a host of international designers took advantage of the Paris stage, including Craig Green, Mike Amiri, John Elliott and Bianca Saunders.

In addition, many brands — including Comme des Garçons and Thom Browne — have returned to the Paris schedule as the COVID-19 pandemic eased or as they uncoupled coed shows to put a bigger spotlight on men’s collections, such as Givenchy did last June. — MILES SOCHA

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TIFFANY’S IN TOWN: By Thursday night of Miami Art Week, traveling between Miami Beach and the Design District becomes a daunting, and lengthy, task. But Tiffany & Co. offered a compelling reason to brave the traffic and make the journey over to celebrate the brand’s first Miami holiday pop-up. Located near its permanent boutique, the two-story pop-up is a celebration of Andy Warhol, who worked for the brand in the ’50s and early ’60s; his archival designs feature in Tiffany’s holiday campaign. Hanging above a selection of high jewelry in the store is a neon-lit quote from Warhol: “More than anything people just want stars.”

There was plenty of star power in the store on Thursday. Guests including brand ambassador Hailey Bieber; Pharrell Williams — donning his custom 25-carat diamond Tiffany & Co. sunglasses; J Balvin; Dixie D’Amelio; Lori Harvey; Camila Coelho; Izabel Goulart, and Athena Calderone turned out for a cocktail celebration toasting the boutique’s debut on Friday, and Art Basel.

Pharrell Williams, Camila Queiroz, J Balvin

Pharrell Williams, Camila Queiroz and J Balvin.

Joe Schildhorn/BFA.com

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The pop-up features an assortment of jewelry from collections including Tiffany T, Elsa Peretti, HardWear, Jean Schlumberger and the all-gender Tiffany Lock. A Tiffany & Co. cafe will serve a selection of drinks and light bites.

The holiday pop-up will remain open through Jan. 31. — KRISTEN TAUER

J Balvin, Hailey Bieber

J Balvin and Hailey Bieber

Joe Schildhorn/BFA.com

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Tiffany & Co. pop-up in Miami. Photo: Brad Dickson

Brad Dickson

PRADA ON THE SLOPES: Just in time for the schuss season, AspenX and Prada have teamed up for a capsule collection of outerwear and knits that take its inspiration from the ski trails of Aspen Snowmass.

The seven-piece womenswear and menswear collection include ski jackets, puffer jackets and knitwear with touches of black, silver and striking reds for the winter 2023 season.

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This is the third time the two entities have joined forces to develop a capsule collection. Last year, the six-piece collection carried distinctive black-and-white designs.

AspenX x Prada capsule collection

The latest AspenX x Prada capsule collection.

Courtesy: AspenX

Like last year, the collection was conceptualized by multimedia artist Paula Crown. Each piece in the current collection incorporates Crown’s artistic exploration of Aspen’s topographic terrain from her art series called “Aspen Maps.”

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The works take angled overhead perspectives of the ski run trail maps, then have them abstracted, layered and rotated to reveal new forms and patterns.

“We’re honored to continue our collaboration with the esteemed house of Prada and to expand the presence of art ‘writ large’ in the natural and built environment,” Crown said.

Each item is made of sustainable textile technologies engineered to support active lifestyles. The collection features optimal insulation and waterproof capabilities through the brand’s hero fabric, Extreme-Tex, a three-layer fabric developed exclusively by Prada, as well as Graphene padding designed to regulate body temperature.

The capsule collection is a premium extension of Prada Linea Rossa, marked with its distinctive red stripe logo that first appeared in 1997.

AspenX is a contemporary retail and experience brand unveiled last year by the Aspen Skiing Company, which owns and operates Aspen Snowmass as well as The Little Nell and Limelight Hotels. The brand was conceptualized by Crown with a flagship store in Aspen and online at Aspenx.com. — DEBORAH BELGUM

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BARNES’ LATEST GIG: Rocky Barnes is adding a new item to her growing résumé. 

The model, designer, fashion influencer, investor and mother is teaming up with lifestyle brand Skatie for a limited-edition collaboration, which Barnes helped codesign. 

Rocky Barnes in pieces from the Rocky Barnes x Skatie collaboration.

Rocky Barnes in pieces from the Rocky Barnes x Skatie collaboration.

Courtesy Photo

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“I wore my Skatie jumpsuits before, during and after both of my pregnancies. I have been hooked ever since,” Barnes told WWD exclusively.  

“When Skatie brought up the idea to do a collab together it seemed like a perfect match,” she continued. “In addition to being a fan of the brand, I love their dedication to sustainability, the team of strong women behind the brand and the fact that Skatie was a fellow working mom doing it all,” Barnes explained, referring to new mom and founder Skatie Noyes. “I am so proud of the collection we’ve created together.” 

Noyes was equally enamored with Barnes. 

“We chose to partner with Rocky because her elevated sense of style and taste level is unmatched,” said Noyes, who helped launch the Venice, California-based active lifestyle brand in 2016. “For years, we have been watching her style our pieces. I believe that her followers and our customers are similar in their love of quality and timeless style. With this collaboration, we were excited to create exactly that. Beyond that, we are so excited to show people that you don’t need to compromise style for sustainability.” 

Madi Glynn, Skatie’s other cofounder, added: “I have been following Rocky since before we started the brand and I have always loved her style. She has been an organic fan of the brand since we started and doing a [collaboration] with her has been a goal of ours for a while. I love watching the way she takes our pieces and creates so many elevated looks with them and the way she has styled the pieces both during her pregnancy and while not pregnant because it really shows the versatility. It has been so fun to watch this collaboration come to life.”

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The Rocky Barnes x Skatie collection includes activewear and swimwear across men’s, women’s and children’s, in addition to loungewear for women, with 102 pieces in total. 

The collection ranges in price from $50 to $150 and will be available starting Dec. 8 at skatie.com. Sizes run XS to XL in women’s, small to XL in men’s and 1 in toddler to size 7/8 in children’s.  

Barnes, who has more than 3 million followers on Instagram, also has her own apparel brand called The Bright Side. In 2021, she became an investor in shopping platform Qatch. In addition, she partnered with Bloomingdale’s in 2021 to curate the department store’s rotating holiday carousel. — KELLIE ELL

GOING ROGUE: Kith and Malin + Goetz are continuing their partnership with a new collection. 

The streetwear label and skin care brand, respectively, are teaming up for their second collection of skin care and home products, called Rogue. The collection offers a fragrance, bar soap, hand and body wash, body lotion and candle, each created with a signature scent developed between the two brands. 

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Kith for Malin + Goetz Rogue Collection

Kith for Malin + Goetz Rogue Collection.

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“It’s always front of mind for me when working with partners on how we can dimensionalize our brand and add to the full lifestyle scope we offer to people,” said Kith founder Ronnie Fieg, in a statement. “It’s been an incredible process developing these scents and apothecary goods with Malin + Goetz as I believe they are truly the best in class for this category. We are telling a story through this collection, one that people can really live with and infuse into their daily lives.” 

Both brands worked together to create the Rogue scent for the collection, which is made up of notes such as beetroot, pink pepper, clove, saffron, violet leaves, cypriol oil and leather, among others. The Rogue collection is meant to be a “sensory experiment of what the color represents,” according to the two brands, and is meant to evoke the feeling of a warmly lit room decorated with modern art and leather furnishings. 

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Kith and Malin + Goetz previously teamed in 2019 on Vapor, a collection that offered hand and body wash, body lotion, a fragrance, a candle, shampoo and conditioner. 

The Kith for Malin + Goetz Rogue collection is available now on Kith’s website and shops. Products range in price from $16 to $95. — LAYLA ILCHI

TODD’S NEW COURT: Todd Snyder continues to be the king of the collaboration, and on Thursday, he extends his reach into the basketball arena through a new partnership with the NBA.

Snyder has worked with the league on a collection of fan gear for several of the most-popular teams: the Atlanta Hawks, Boston Celtics, Brooklyn Nets, Los Angeles Lakers, New York Knicks and San Francisco Golden State Warriors.

Called the Todd Snyder x NBA Curtsied Collection, the limited-edition offering puts a fresh take on the teams’ logos on French terry sweatshirts and turtlenecks, cashmere sweaters and leather varsity jackets. 

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The line features looks for several teams including the Brooklyn Nets.

“I wanted to create some fan gear that was sophisticated — styles that you could wear to the game and around town,” Snyder said. “The Curtsied Collection is kind of a dream come true because growing up in Iowa, I played basketball every day. When I moved to New York during the ’80s, I fell in love with the Knicks and finally had a hometown pro team. One of my career highlights was winning a design contest when I worked at The Gap to design the jerseys for the Indiana Pacers. To see them play in something you designed…that was something else.”

Among the key items are a varsity jacket that Snyder reworked in Melton wool with leather, raglan sleeves, a quilted satin lining and a leather tab at the cuffs. A cashmere cardigan includes horn buttons and bullion logo on the chest with intarsia stripes at the sleeves.

There is also a sweater in two-tone cashmere with satin lettering on the chest, raglan sleeves and a “Dorito” at the neck, Snyder said, designed to catch sweat and make pullovers easier to take on and off. A crewneck sweatshirt was created in Canada in fleece with striped ribbed trim at the cuffs and hem; a French terry turtleneck, made in the same factory in Canada, has a chenille logo patch across the chest; and a French terry hoodie has a kangaroo pocket, ribbed side panels, a double-layered hood and a chenille chest patch.

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The collection will drop on Thursday at 10 a.m. EST on the Todd Snyder retail stores and online. Retail prices include $248 for the hoodie, $258 for the sweatshirt, $268 for the turtleneck, $498 for the sweater, $528 for the cardigan and $1,500 for the varsity jacket. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

AMIRI’S EXPANSION: Los Angeles-based fashion designer Mike Amiri continues his global expansion.  

With an eye toward the Middle East, the designer has opened a store in The Dubai Mall as part of his expansion to the United Arab Emirates with local retail partner Soho Middle East.

“Amiri Dubai is the third international store we have opened this year and our eighth store worldwide,” said the designer, who is the chief executive officer and creative director of his self-named company. “Dubai will play a key role in the global market for Amiri as we continue to create a brand footprint within the Middle East and Asia.” 

Mike Amiri Dubai store

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The new Amiri store at The Dubai Mall.

[email protected]

Amiri has stores in Shanghai and Tokyo and opened its fifth U.S. location in Atlanta in October with a 4,000-square-foot venue at Phipps Plaza. Its flagship store is on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, with other outposts at the Design District in Miami, in SoHo in New York and at the Wynn Las Vegas.

In Dubai, the 3,500-square-foot space is sleek and modern with materials such as marble, walnut, paloma stone and stainless steel to exhibit the designer’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear and leather goods.

In addition, Amiri Dubai will be offering a special capsule collection called “Dubai Palm Tree,” which will include silk shirts and shorts, a T-shirt, hoodie and jersey shorts. Pieces will be decorated with a new hand-painted botanical illustration inspired by the date palm.

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The designer, raised in Los Angeles, launched his brand in 2014. He has been making strides ever since. He is a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America and has been nominated three times by CFDA as menswear designer of the year. — LISA LOCKWOOD



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Loewe’s Next Craft Prize Is Heading to New York

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Flicking through photos of the 30 objects competing for the next Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, it’s often difficult to decipher the end use, the material employed — and in some cases, if one might be looking at living, organic compounds.

Unexpected forms and a “sense of playfulness and surprise” characterize many of the entries for the 2023 edition, which encompass ceramics, woodworking, textiles, furniture, paper, basket-making, glass, metal, jewelry lacquer, leather and bookbinding.

A panel of experts whittled down the finalists from 2,700 entries from 117 different countries.

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Anatxu Zabalbeascoa, a design journalist and executive secretary of the experts panel, said, “We are happy to have been able to further expose the notion of craft with artistic ambition by analyzing non-western canon aesthetics as well as by approaching figurative craft.”

A ceramic object of dizzying delicacy by Eriko Inazaki.

Courtesy of Loewe Foundation

The winner, who receives 50,000 euros, is to be revealed on May 16 at The Noguchi Museum in New York. All 30 shortlisted works will go on display in Isamu Noguchi’s studio from May 17 until June 18.

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Among the 13 jury members who will select the prize are Abraham Thomas, curator of modern architecture, design and decorative arts at the Metropolitan Museum of Art; architects Benedetta Tagliabue, Patricia Urquiola and Wang Shu; ceramicist Magdalene Odundo, and Olivier Gabet, director of the art department at the Louvre Museum.

Established in 2016, the annual craft prize is the brainchild of Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson and is a tribute to the Spanish house’s roots as a collective craft workshop in 1846.

Anderson has long been a fan of craft, and the prize exalts “excellence, artistic merit and innovation in modern craftsmanship,” according to Loewe.

A chair by Liam Lee made of felted merino wool and poplar plywood.

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Courtesy of Loewe Foundation

In previous years, the prize ceremony has been held at the Colegio Oficial de Arquitectos de Madrid, The Design Museum in London and the Sogetsu Kaikan in Tokyo. During the pandemic, one edition was held digitally in a joint presentation with Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and at the Seoul Museum of Craft Art.

This sixth edition offers examples of time-intensive techniques, skillful manipulation of materials and the surprise of trompe l’oeil.

“Many of the works presented in this year’s shortlist also examine the relationship between light, material and surface, with an expert handling of materials and form used to transform the reflective properties of the works and to create a sense of movement,” Loewe noted.

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Phillip Lim’s New York Vibe, Staple Links With New York Rangers

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LIM’S NEW YORK TRIBUTE: To celebrate New York Fashion Week, Phillip Lim is opening the doors of an immersive gallery experience, “A New York City Vibration,” to the public at the Lower East Side’s 199 Chrystie Street this weekend. The pop-up gallery serves as Lim’s second chapter of the brand’s overarching ode to New York City titled “Someday, Somehow, Somewhere,” which began within his pre-fall collection and is expanding into fall 2023.

“The last several collections have been an ode to New York. The goal is to show potentially in September, but until then, I want to do a stream of events that really are rooted in what is quintessential New York — thinking about what is New York, what’s special about it,” Lim told WWD about his decision to create a community-driven gallery boasting creative partnerships and collaborations.

“Let’s take what we do, but not have the clothes front and center and instead invite an artist that’s not from the fashion world to take the liberties and lens it in a way that they would see through their eyes as context to New York City, hence the name of the activation. For me, I’m always trying to look for new angles — selfishly to inspire myself, because it’s dangerous right now as we get back into doing the same old things of putting out collections — so I wanted to do an event that felt experimental.”

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To lens the fall collection (which will be featured within the space through a collaged series of printed photographs and an immersive video projection anchored by large-scale prints), Lim tapped Japanese New York-based photographer Jiro Konami, whose works span from portrait studies to cityscapes with bright light flares and hues. “Konami’s collaboration with 3.1 Phillip Lim will showcase humanity, atmospheric elements and a distillation of the essence of the New York spirit — an immersive, emotional visual display,” a statement from the brand said. 

3.1 Phillip Lim’s “A New York City Vibration” invite.

“Jiro is an amazing photographer who I have wanted to work with forever. He captures really ephemeral moments of the city he calls home, which is perfect, because what we’re trying to do, too, is search for that vibration or new ideas and tension to bring out new conversations. I’m handing the collection over to him, he’s going to lens it and has 100 percent liberty,” Lim explained, adding the projection will feature a custom soundtrack of New York City-centric sounds “digitized into contemporary ambience” by Brooklyn-based producer Jon Jung of IT-XPO.

The activation will begin Friday evening with a private viewing for the brand’s community, VIP and media, followed by a public opening Saturday through Sunday (with exhibition details slated to launch on the brand’s website Thursday). The weekend event is presented in partnership with Farfetch Group’s Farfetch Platform Solutions, which has been Lim’s technology partner to power his brand’s e-commerce, digital marketing and global operations since 2019, as well as Seedlip, Johnnie Walker and Tanqueray.

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“When most people think of Farfetch.com, it’s for the Marketplace, but we also have this b-to-b business unit, which is Farfetch Platform Solutions, where we take our platform we’ve built for the marketplace and white label it out for brands and retailers. Phillip Lim has always been a great partner of ours — it was about taking what they had built for the U.S. market and growing that international presence with our global logistics and looking at us as thought partners for how we expand that relationship,” Kelly Kowal, chief platform officer of Farfetch, told WWD.

“For us, this event was a way to express the partnership of how we work together. We’ve been long-standing partners and it really is bringing experience to real life. The way they think about their customer base — how they give a global experience in-store and online — so it made sense for us to do something together in this event space of bringing that technical and digital together in real life.”

Lim said the event certainly is not “a soulless marketing activation,” but rather a way to bring his community, as well as new demographics of people and partnerships, together while “cementing and confirming why we love to live here and are proud to be a NYC brand.” — EMILY MERCER

STAPLE HITS THE ICE: Staple and the New York Rangers are teaming up again for a capsule collection.

The streetwear brand and NHL team have joined forces for their second collaboration to highlight New York City bodegas and the team’s mantra of “No Quit in New York.” The capsule collection includes apparel like T-shirts, hoodies, polos, crewnecks, bomber jackets and accessories.

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“New York City is world-renowned for its ‘no quit’ mindset,” said Staple founder Jeff Staple. “This has influenced its sports teams, my own Staple brand and even icons like your local bodegas. We all hustle 24 hours a day, seven days a week. We wanted to bring that same boundless energy to our second collaboration with the legendary New York Rangers and celebrate two of New York City’s classic institutions. It’s an honor to work with my hometown team to create this special collection.” 

The collection looked to New York City bodegas by taking inspiration from “bodega essentials” like ATMs, neon signs, flower bouquets and bags of ice. The pieces also incorporate the Rangers’ team colors of red, white and blue. 

Styles from the Staple x The New York Rangers collection.

New York Rangers defenseman K’Andre Miller served as a creative consultant for the collection, working with Staple to design a custom T-shirt and jacket. 

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“Feeding off the success of last year’s collaboration, we are excited to partner with Staple on an even bigger and better collection this season,” said David Hopkinson, president and chief operating officer at Madison Square Garden Sports Corp. “We are consistently looking for ways to elevate our merchandise beyond traditional sports apparel, and Staple’s unique designs and strong history within the streetwear industry make this partnership a perfect fit.” 

The Staple x The New York Rangers collection, which is presented by Chase, will be available starting Friday at Madison Square Garden and its website. Prices range from $45 to $150. — LAYLA ILCHI

NEW ROLE: Suzanne Anderson has been named president of Kerri Rosenthal, a luxury lifestyle brand that spans art, home decor, fashion apparel and accessories all derived from Rosenthal’s colorful and original art.

She succeeds Amanda Elias, who left the company.

In this role, Anderson will be charged with expanding the Kerri Rosenthal brand nationally and internationally through existing and new distribution channels and introducing the brand to a larger, wider community.

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Anderson will be based at the company’s new corporate office in Westport, Connecticut.

Most recently, Anderson was vice president of design at Macy’s for ready-to-wear, men’s and kids’ private bands. Earlier, she was creative director at Peerless Clothing, where she spent 13 years driving the creative strategy across licensed and house brands.

“As the Kerri Rosenthal brand continues to grow, we believe that Suzanne will build upon our well-established DNA and prepare us for extensive growth,” said Kerri Rosenthal, founder and chief creative officer.

Anderson, who reports to Rosenthal, added: “I am excited to join a luxury brand that translates Kerri’s vivid art into fashion apparel and products for the home. The collection has a very elevated, sophisticated and unique beauty which I believe is missing in the market. The opportunities for growth are endless and I am excited to start this journey.”

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Kerri Rosenthal and Suzanne Anderson

Rosenthal’s brand has experienced rapid growth over the last six years, which included the opening of its flagship in Westport, featuring original paintings and home and apparel products as well as a selection of third-party items.

Rosenthal’s products are now available in more than 200 doors across the U.S. and Canada. Last November, the brand launched Kerri Rosenthal x Aqua, available in all Bloomingdale’s doors and online. Other collaborations in 2022 included Kerri Rosenthal x Roller Rabbit, Kerri Rosenthal x Spiritual Gangster and Kerri Rosenthal x Stripe & Stare.

The brand recently introduced a new tabletop collection, plans to open additional U.S. retail locations and is focused on adding categories within its art space. — LISA LOCKWOOD

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AG Women’s and Men’s RTW Fall 2023

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AG may be based in California, but it’s New York that informs the fall collection. 

The premium denim and lifestyle brand offered classic Americana staples with an East Coast sensibility for the men’s and women’s offering this season. Collegiate references were evident in striped long-sleeve polos, plaid flight jackets and slightly oversize wide-wale corduroy pants and shackets — all updated through modern fits and a classic fall color palette.

John Rossell, head of marketing and creative direction for the Los Angeles-based brand, pointed to the “utilitarian vibe” that ran through the collection: a men’s jacket with zippers on the chest, dark denim jeans that looked “well worn,” a canvas jacket with a zip-out vest for men, a patch pocket denim safari jacket, and a long coat with deep pockets and a line of buttons down the front that could double as a dress for women.

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There was a lot of dressing up and dressing down in the collection, including leggings with a slit on the ankle so they could be worn with heels, as well as a wool-blend blazer for women. There was also a new women’s denim jacket silhouette with a drop shoulder that offered up a ‘70s sportswear feel.

For the holiday drop, AG showed a tailored collection that still spoke to its roots — but in a dressier way. Dark denim miniskirts and vests over a silk button-down shirt or a flowy wraparound silk dress would work well at any party, while a five-pocket pant in suiting fabric or a new suit silhouette with a three-button blazer and pleated trouser with a shorter inseam would be appropriate for men.

All told, AG hit the mark on elevating its wardrobe staples reimagined with a city sensibility.

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