Following her Paris debut last June, Mowalola Ogunlesi returned to London to present the fall 2023 collection.
Taking inspiration from logos in popular culture, from New York more specifically this season, and reworking them to embody her brand identity, she created sweaters, caps, and bomber jackets with parody motifs that include MoWA, which is based on MoMA, and MY, her take on the Yankees logo, as well as a dancing silhouette, which is her version of Air Jordan.
Ogunlesi also introduced a new style of trousers that might go viral this fall. Taking the idea of sagging trousers to the extreme, her jeans hung mid-air just above the knees, connected to a waistband hidden under hoodies.
The styling of the collection echoed how people dress in NYC, according to Ogunlesi.
Some of the products in the new collection are visibly more merchandisable than before. “I am really focusing on making everything wearable because I really want to see them on the street,” Ogunlesi added.
But the designer hasn’t given up on leather, her favorite material. She offered a variety of designs in white, brown, gray, black, and burgundy that ranged from jackets, long coats, trousers printed with the image of hands near private parts, long skirts hand-painted with the silhouette of jeans and miniskirts, sexy cropped tops and vests in washed leather.
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