Diehard Moschino fans turned up to the fall show in spring’s zany inflatables — their knees trapped in life buoys, their collars bulging out like blow-up airplane neck pillows.
Lo and behold, for fall Jeremy Scott paraded luncheon suits and evening gowns riddled with mega spikes that could theoretically puncture his last effort. Any of the jutting hairstyles could also do the trick, for that matter. Fashion moves fast and often a designer’s latest collection is a reaction to his or her last one.
This one was less gimmicky and more commercial, hinged on vaguely 1980s Ladies Who Lunch suits and prim coats with some serious warping going on. Hemlines, buttons, contrast trims, floral and houndstooth prints appeared to be melting and dripping like Salvador Dalí’s clocks. Black pumps oozed some extra sole.
Scott then switched gears, supplanting the Surrealist motif with brooch-sized jewels swarming over black suiting, biker jackets, handbags and ankle boots. Let minimalism gather steam on other runways: Scott wasn’t having any of it, gilding everything to the hilt.
By contrast, the set was bare-bones, models emerging from a wrecking-ball hole in the wall and stalking a raised catwalk of wooden planks. The attitude was punk.
The show climaxed with a parade of elaborate evening gowns, some sculpted in jewel-toned taffeta, others paved in crystal embroideries, including the slinky, one-shouldered column that closed the show. But for its wavy, melted neckline, it was almost minimal.
On Thursday night, Nordstrom and Simone Rocha hosted an intimate dinner in the West Village. The event, held at chef Angie Mar’s Les Trois Chevaux, celebrated the designer’s new installation at Nordstrom’s uptown flagship and their long-standing collaboration.
“When we launched Space, Simone Rocha was one of our pillar brands,” said Nordstrom’s Olivia Kim, noting she’s been a fan since Rocha’s very first collection out of Central Saint Martins. “It’s been so incredible to watch her success and watch her continue to grow,” she added. “There’s something so incredibly beautiful and dark and feminine, yet sad — it’s all of the spectrum of emotions I’ve found with her clothes.”
“I’ve been working with Olivia for a long time; she’s always really understood my identity as a designer,” said Rocha. “We started with Space — and now I have my own space. [Nordstrom] invited me to come do an installation and a takeover, and it’s been really fabulous and they gave me a lot of creative freedom.”
The London-based designer was sticking around New York for one more day to launch her menswear collection in her Mercer Street boutique.
Guests — many of whom wore Simone Rocha for the occasion — included Michelle Zauner of Japanese Breakfast, Miles Greenberg, Precious Okoyomon, Blake Abbie, Laila Gohar, and Antwaun Sargent.
Mar’s restaurant, which she opened as an homage to her family, was a fitting location for a dinner celebrating two fashion brands with strong familial foundations.
“Nordstrom was the first shopping experience that I ever really had with my mom,” said Mar, another avowed Simone Rocha fan, from the kitchen before dinner. “I have so many fond memories of going to the flagship in downtown Seattle, having an afternoon out with her. So for me, it’s home, it’s family — and you never really get over your first shopping experience, right?”
PARIS — Kering has named Rosângela Rennó the winner of its 2023 Women in Motion Award for photography, in recognition of the Brazilian artist’s work on discarded images rescued from various sources, from flea markets and internet photos to institutional archives.
She is due to receive the prize on July 4 during the photography festival Les Rencontres d’Arles, which will host the first major exhibition of her work in France. Supported by the Women in Motion program, the show will run from July 3 to Sept. 24, and Rennó will give a talk during an event at the Théâtre Antique in Arles.
“She will present her work and share with the audience her personal journey and her view of women’s place in photography and society in general,” Kering said in a statement Friday. “Her work is a detailed exploration of time, of forgetting, and the social and psychological changes that affect memory.”
Rennó is known for appropriating and transforming archival photographic material into an art installation or a book of photography. In 2013, she received the festival’s Historical Book Award for her work on the photographs stolen from the National Library of Brazil in Rio de Janeiro.
The prize is accompanied by an endowment for acquiring works of the winner for the festival’s collection. The previous recipients were Babette Mangolte, Liz Johnson Artur, Sabine Weiss and Susan Meiselas.
Kering will also support an exhibition of photographs taken by late director Agnès Varda in 1954 before and during the shooting of the film “La Pointe Courte.” A key figure in the French New Wave with films like “Cleo From 5 to 7,” Varda was one of the first participants in the Women in Motion program of film talks.
Reflecting the broad international reach of the competition, which marks its 10th anniversary this year, finalists come from the four corners of the globe but are mostly based in Europe and the U.S., with three working out of the U.K., three out of Italy, two in the U.S. and one in France.
The U.S.-based contingent consists of Luar by Raul Lopez and Diotima by Jamaican designer Rachel Scott. They are joined by London-based brands Aaron Esh; Bettter by Ukrainian designer Julie Pelipas, and Paolina Russo, headed by Canadian designer Paolina Russo and French designer Lucile Guilmard.
Rounding out the group are Paris-based designer Burç Akyol; Italian designer Luca Magliano’s Magliano label, Quira by Veronica Leoni and Setchu by Satoshi Kuwata, which is based in Milan.
Reflecting the new mood of realism at Paris Fashion Week, the finalists selected by a jury of experts and a public vote offered credible wardrobe choices that reflected concerns with gender identity, the environment and craftsmanship.
“The semi-final of the tenth edition of this prize has highlighted a great maturity in the approach and work of the designers,” said Delphine Arnault, the force behind the initiative and a key talent scout at family-controlled luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, parent of brands including Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Givenchy, Loewe and Dior, where she is chairman and CEO.
Several of the finalists worked in a variety of luxury and contemporary brands before striking out on their own, and have carefully considered every aspect of their label, from sourcing and production to marketing and image.
“Cultural diversity, celebration of traditional crafts and creative audacity define this selection. Naturally, the finalists are fully engaged in dealing with environmental issues and play with the boundaries between menswear and womenswear. Their expertise, their creativity, their uniqueness and their commitment have truly impressed me,” Arnault said.
The annual design prize has helped propel the careers of such talents as Marine Serre, Nensi Dojaka, Thebe Magugu, Simon Porte Jacquemus and Grace Wales Bonner. Last year’s winner was British designer Steven Stokey-Daley with his S.S. Daley menswear label, whose fans include Harry Styles.
The grand prize winner receives a 300,000-euro endowment and mentorship by LVMH teams in such areas as sustainability, communications, marketing, legal, production and finance. The winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize receives a 150,000-euro allocation plus one year of mentorship from LVMH experts.
To qualify, designers must be between the ages of 18 and 40 and have at least two commercialized womenswear, menswear or genderless collections under their belt. In addition, three fashion school graduates are to be awarded 10,000 euros each and a one-year placement in the design studio of an LVMH brand.
The 2023 edition of the prize drew a record of more than 2,400 applicants. A jury made up of LVMH’s famous creative directors will ultimately select the victors ahead of a prize ceremony on June 7 at the Louis Vuitton Foundation in Paris.
“Ten years ago, when I had the idea for this prize, we could not have imagined this journey. Today, the LVMH Prize is an international and essential player in design. Each year, the number of entries increases: it is very difficult to choose between them, given the quality of the candidates and of their creations,” Arnault said.
Barely a year after launching his namesake brand, London-based designer Aaron Esh has made a name for himself with his romance-tinged menswear, which reflects his aesthetic influences as much as the realities of living in post-Brexit Britain.
Esh studied menswear at London College of Fashion before earning a scholarship from Alexander McQueen to complete his MA at Central Saint Martins. His designs contrast traditional tailoring with constructions and details borrowed from the womenswear lexicon. Examples include puff-skirt jeans, a halter-neck waistcoat and hoodies with tie fastenings.
“I look at subversion of the masculine archetype, showing there can be allure to menswear with softness and elegance – redefining what masculinity means within a wardrobe,” he said.
Ukrainian designer Julie Pelipas launched her womenswear brand Bettter on the cusp of the coronavirus pandemic, and had barely overcome that hurdle when the Russian invasion threw her country into chaos. Since then, she has focused on keeping her team safe, in addition to creating a platform showcasing Ukrainian creatives in need of work.
The former fashion director of Vogue Ukraine conceived Bettter as an upcycling system that reworks secondhand garments and deadstock materials. Her first collection focused on the signature oversized suits she was often photographed wearing to fashion shows, and she’s since expanded to more casual pieces, including shirts made from vintage towels and reconstructed T-shirts.
“I just wanted people to know that upcycling can be really sexy,” Pelipas told WWD. Now based in London, she’s looking to make connections that will allow the label to scale and become a solution for the stock currently clogging brands.
Having discovered fashion via his father, a tailor, Burç Akyol gave up a budding acting career to enroll at the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. After stints at Christian Dior and Balenciaga, he worked alongside Esteban Cortázar at the Colombian designer’s namesake brand. In 2019, Akyol left to create his own unisex label.
Akyol is known for creations that marry sexiness with austerity. His signature metal hands bustier has been modelled for editorial shoots by celebrities including Cate Blanchett and Cardi B, while Kendall Jenner and Elizabeth Debicki have worn his designs on the red carpet.
For him, challenging rules through fashion is a way to trigger change. “I don’t want to gender clothing. It’s about you being comfortable with what you’re wearing. It has a gender: the one that you choose,” he told WWD.
Rachel Scott launched her womenswear brand Diotima during the pandemic, after watching how the shutdown of the fashion industry impacted workers on the bottom rungs of the supply chain. Based in Brooklyn, New York, she saw an opportunity to provide work for women specializing in traditional crochet techniques in her home country Jamaica.
Having studied fashion design at Istituto Marangoni in Italy, Scott began her career as an assistant designer at Costume National before moving to the U.S., where she worked with brands such as J. Mendel, Elizabeth & James and Rachel Comey.
Named after Diotima of Mantinea, an ancient Greek character in Plato’s “Symposium,” her label balances artisanal, sensual styles with mannish, sophisticated tailoring, referencing dance hall and her Jamaican roots. “I seek to present a seductive and nuanced vision of Caribbean style, looking to the future while remaining grounded in history and my experience as a Jamaican,” she said.
Raul Lopez is on a roll. The New York-based designer recently won the CFDA’s American Accessory Designer of the Year Award, and shopping search platform Lyst named Luar as the Brand to Watch in its “Year in Fashion 2022” report, citing a 106 percent increase in demand for its popular Ana bag.
Lopez, who also co-founded cult-favorite label Hood By Air with Shayne Oliver, channels his experience as the child of Dominican immigrants into his coed collections, which frequently reference his upbringing and his admiration for the opulence of Manhattan’s elite.
Celebrities including Dua Lipa and Julia Fox are fans of his work. “As a Latino gay child born in Brooklyn to immigrant parents, my brand is part love letter to the child that I was, part love letter to those, who like me, are looking to see themselves in a world that often ignores them,” he said.
Luca Magliano’s label has been gaining heat on the Milan scene with its meticulous take on downbeat, vintage-looking menswear.
A fashion design graduate of Bologna’s Libera Università delle Arti, Magliano cut his teeth on Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s team in Milan prior to moving back to Bologna in 2013 to work with designer Manuela Arcari on the Ter et Bantine fashion line. Arcari, who is also the president of Arcari e Co., offered him the chance to launch his own collection under license in 2017.
Known for his tailoring and color sense, at times evoking grunge or vintage aesthetics, Magliano is positioned in the affordable luxury segment and is carried at around 60 retailers globally. In December, the company sold a minority stake to Underscore District, a newly established fashion business accelerator, to support the next stage of its growth.
Founded by Canadian designer Paolina Russo in 2020, this knitwear-focused womenswear brand draws on her experiences of growing up in Ontario, where the two major pastimes were craft and team sports.
French designer Lucile Guilmard, a fellow Central Saint Martins graduate, joined as co-designer last year, bringing her folklore references and contemporary cutting methods to the mix.
Known for its signature lenticular knitwear, the London-based brand is a finalist for the 2023 International Woolmark Prize and has several capsule collections with Adidas under its belt. Using upcycled and unconventional materials, Paolina Russo channels suburban nostalgia with items like its Warrior top, a knit corset inspired by “The Legend of Zelda.”
Having cut her teeth with Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo, Veronica Leoni is ready to make her own statement with her womenswear label Quira. Its blend of strictness and sensuality mirrors the female-centric approach of her mentors.
Named after her seamstress grandmother, Quirina, the brand made its debut at Milan Fashion Week in 2021 and has garnered more than 20 stockists, including Bergdorf Goodman, H.Lorenzo and Ssense, thanks to sparse and quiet fare cut from exquisite materials.
For her fall 2023 presentation in Paris, Leoni worked with a mostly black palette, focusing on shape with layered silhouettes that gave off a protective aura. “I feel in a way that it’s a very strong point of view on style, the black itself, and gives a very sharp point of view on modern womanhood. I think it’s quite necessary at the moment and I feel a responsibility there,” she told WWD.
Born in Kyoto, Japan, Satoshi Kuwata moved to London at the age of 21 to pursue his dream of becoming a fashion designer. During his studies at Central Saint Martins, he worked for Huntsman in Savile Row, where he learned to master his tailoring skills.
Kuwata went on to work with brands including Gareth Pugh in London; Kanye West and Givenchy in Paris; Edun in New York City and Golden Goose in Milan before launching his unisex label in 2020. The brand name Setchu represents the fusion of Japanese and Western concepts, with items like foldable jackets in origami-like constructions.
A winner of Vogue Italia’s “Who Is on Next?” talent search last year, Kuwata grounds his designs in a deep knowledge and respect for different cultures and crafts. “I place all my efforts into a design process imbued with storytelling,” the globe-trotting designer said.
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