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Koché RTW Fall 2023

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At seven years old, Koché is on the cusp between emerging label and household brand, a moment that got Christelle Kocher thinking about the fundamentals of the brand.

“Before starting a new cycle, it’s about where it came from, where we started, the design, the trial-and-error, the research, the team,” she said. Even the brand’s Parisian studio made an appearance, as the setting for the fall look book.  

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In a nutshell, the starting point’s always been contrasts of materials, a focus on wearability and Kocher’s use of traditional couture know-how on decidedly contemporary fare. “I wanted to have this very urban [vibe], a new energy that’s a little punk with a feminine side that I took a while to fully embrace again, with refined work on pieces with embroideries and embellishments,” she continued, naming dresses as a category that saw her drape and pleat in the spirit of Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Grès.

Knitwear took pride of place this season. It’s a category that’s been going strongly for the brand, and one that Kocher delved into for its ease-of-wear but also the potential to apply the full force of her artisanal vision.

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Case in point: a sweater dress inlaid with lace; a halterneck gown that paired silk with ribbed knits that achieved a seamless pleated look, or zippered cardigan coats that used multiple types of stitches.

Elsewhere, the intricate folds on a top were offset by the mesh it was made of, while boxy blousons and trenches were given a sharp makeover thanks to architectural shoulder lines. A fluffy gorilla jacket made of feathers and raw-edged chiffon that was as light to wear as it was visually striking thanks to its organza and Airtex mesh underpinnings.

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For the masculine side to her lineup, Kocher delved into the sportier part of her playbook, reworking sports jerseys, zippered sweaters and motorcycle jackets, in a nod to the work of German visual artist Alexandra Bircken.

There’s another way in which Kocher is about to double down on her label’s identity: by moving to the men’s calendar as of next season.

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Not only did it feel like a conceptual fit, including a proximity to couture, but it also made commercial sense for the brand, which will no longer be offering pre-collections.

“Concentrating my message in one collection with multiple commercial drops made more sense for my brand, my teams — to do less but better,” Kocher said.

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Georgia May Jagger Helps Brora Celebrate 30th Anniversary

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In an industry that is all about tomorrow, Brora is marking its 30th anniversary with a future spin.

The cashmere specialist’s founder and creative director Victoria Stapleton peered into the archives to select a favorite style from each year based on her preferences, as well as those of consumers and the company’s design team. Rather than reissue originals or let loose replicas, she reimagined the standouts for a 2023 collection.

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For example, Brora’s 2012 silk cotton waterfall dress has been updated by featuring the print in cobalt and fuchsia versus its original pastel hues. Another retooling can be seen in the brand’s signature cotton and jersey wave knit, which dates back to the ’90s. It has been refreshed in a mohair version. The idea is to illustrate how changing the cut and color of a well-loved garment can transform its look and feel, a company spokeswoman said.

To relay a more of-the-moment image, Brora enlisted Georgia May Jagger to model the heritage collection. (She is 31, but close enough.) Like the clothes that she wears, the fair-haired model’s mother Jerry Hall is a loyal Brora customer. Hall has received Brora gifts each year from her mother and has subsequently returned the favor.

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The model wears the reimagined “Waterfall” dress.

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While the Brora team knew that Hall was a customer, they didn’t learn that Jagger was one too until the shoot. The Brora spokeswoman explained, “Georgia said that when she was old enough, she took such pleasure in being able to afford to repay her mother’s kindness and buy her mother Brora items, too,” adding that she spoke of wanting to emulate her mother’s style as a child.

Her latest modeling gig is a first for both parties. Jagger also recently appeared in Burberry’s latest campaign.

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Brora has a reputation for its quality, with more than 50 processes needed to make a cashmere sweater, including several steps that require the human touch. Big on natural fibers, the company offers a good amount of its styles in Scottish cashmere, organic cotton, wool and linen. Brora is committed to working with craftspeople and artisans to create designs that are meant to last over time, while preserving traditional skills.

The retail prices for the 30-piece anniversary collection range from 79 pounds for a pair of cashmere wrist warmers to 449 pounds for a cashmere cardigan. There are also non-knitted options like an embroidered skirt, a silk star printed skirt and a cross-weave linen dress. The assortment is available online and can be found in the company’s nine freestanding stores including London ones on Sloane Square and on Marylebone High Street. It is also being sold in Brora’s boutiques in Bath, Edinburgh and New York’s Madison Avenue.

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Fear of God Sets First Fashion Show for April 19

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Fear of God designer Jerry Lorenzo will hold his first fashion show April 19.

The venue will be The Hollywood Bowl, the famed outdoor music venue which last year celebrated its 100th anniversary. The landmark has hosted concerts by Frank Sinatra, Judy Garland, Jimi Hendrix, The Doors, The Rolling Stones, Diana Ross, Dolly Parton and many more, but has only once hosted a fashion show.

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That was in 1993 when Calvin Klein staged a runway show with 350 models, 4,750 guests and a charity angle: the event raised $1 million for AIDS Project Los Angeles.

No other details were available about Lorenzo’s plans, or if the show will be open to the paying public as Klein’s was.

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The luxury label founded in 2013 has been on an upward trajectory the past few months. On March 8, Alfred Chang, PacSun’s co-chief executive officer for 17 years, joined Fear of God as chief executive offcer. “Bringing on board the right CEO to further build the organization, culture and resources was critical at this stage of the brand’s trajectory,” Lorenzo said.

In February, the brand took its first steps into retail with a pop-up shop opened in Hyundai Trade Center in Seoul. And in January, Fear of God introduced a buzzy collaboration with Birkenstock, a slide called the Los Feliz after the L.A. neighborhood.

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Lorenzo follows his own fashion calendar, and introduced his last collection, titled “Eternal,” in April 2022. That lineup included precision-cut cashmere-wool Chesterfield coats, double-breasted “California” blazers with notch lapels, and tricot ones with light shoulder padding. His zip-front Harrington jackets, loose-pleated trousers and suede espadrilles had a bit of an 1980s “Miami Vice” throwback jam. “I still watch it all the time,” he said of the TV show.

There were also sweats, bombers, polos and other wardrobing elements in soothing gradations of concrete, gray-olive, charcoal and black, that fit together like pieces in a Tetris game, as he described it.

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“It’s allowing the person to enter the room before the clothes,” he said. “But when you pay attention to what they have on it’s, oh, that’s beautiful.”

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The Rocket Man at Selfridges

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LONDON Selfridges Corner Shop is turning into an Elton John world.

The space is an homage to the British singer, who kicks off his “Farewell Yellow Brick Road” U.K. tour on Thursday.

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The Corner Shop features pieces from John’s archive, including a Nudie Cohn rhinestone suit and archival prints of the singer-songwriter onstage from his previous world tours.

The shop will be selling tour merchandise; eyewear from John’s eyewear brand, and Christopher Kane’s More Joy line, which has produced an exclusive collection of More Elton pieces.

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Elton John at the Corner Shop

Elton John at the Corner Shop.

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TIM CHARLES

Savile Row tailor Richard James has reissued Elton’s orange and pink polka dot suit from his 2001 “Got Milk?” ad campaign.

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Other brands such as KidSuper and FPM Milano have created exclusive product for the Corner Shop; Cent.Ldn has made an Elton-inspired candle; Moët & Chandon is doing limited-edition Champagne bottles, and ceramist ​​Laetitia Rouget is using Elton’s song titles on plates and more.

“We’ve been working closely with the teams at Selfridges and Bravado to create a unique experience that allows my fans to take a step into my world. I’m an avid shopper, so the bar has been set high and we’ve come up with something special that celebrates the things I love — fashion, vinyl, live music, food and some beautiful design,” said John in a statement.

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As part of the celebration, The Cinema at Selfridges will be hosting screenings of “Rocketman,” starring Taron Egerton.

According to reports, John has declined the invitation to perform at King Charles III’s coronation ceremony in May. John was a close friend of the late Princess Diana.

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