Paco Rabanne fall 2023
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Published
1 month agoon
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ironity
Could Jean Paul Gaultier’s next guest couturier be recruited from within the Puig fashion family?
According to sources, Paco Rabanne creative director Julien Dossena is in discussions to design a one-off haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. Both Paris-based fashion houses are owned by the Spanish group Puig.
Gaultier sat front row at Dossena’s fall 2023 fashion show for Paco Rabanne on Wednesday. Gaultier demurred when asked if his presence might signal his choice, noting that he attended primarily to pay respects to the founding couturier, who died last month at age 88.
Contacted by WWD, Gaultier and Puig officials declined all comment on Thursday.
Should Dossena be selected, his collection for Jean Paul Gaultier would be unveiled during the next couture week in Paris, which runs from July 3 to 6.
At the creative helm of Rabanne since 2013, Dossena is prized for his meticulous, yet zesty designs with a futuristic sheen.
Paco Rabanne fall 2023
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
A graduate of La Cambre in Brussels, Dossena won the 1.2.3 prize at the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères in 2006. From 2008 to 2012, he was a senior designer in the Balenciaga studio, working closely with former creative director Nicolas Ghesquière.
Haider Ackermann, Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, Glenn Martens of Y/Project and Diesel, and Chitose Abe of Sacai were the first four talents invited to guest-design a Gaultier couture collection following the founder’s retirement from the runway in 2020.
It’s quickly become a highlight of couture week — and fueled interest in Gaultier’s vast and eclectic oeuvre, achieved over a career spanning 50 years.
The idea of different designers interpreting one couture brand first came to Gaultier in the ’90s when one Paris house “found itself without a designer,” according to Gaultier, who has never named names, though the house in question is believed to be Jean Patou, famously ignited by Christian Lacroix in the ’80s. (Gaultier also worked at Patou earlier in his career.)
Spain’s Puig, while known primarily for its fragrance forte, has been ramping up activities with the fashion houses it owns, which in addition to Paco Rabanne and Jean Paul Gaultier include Nina Ricci, Carolina Herrera and Dries Van Noten.
Its owned fragrance brands include Byredo, Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur. It also operates Charlotte Tilbury and has a derma division.
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SUPPORTING ART: Fashion, technology and art are teaming up for a site-specific project. For the first time, MSGM is sponsoring Miart, Milan’s international modern and contemporary art fair, commissioning an installation by artists Eva & Franco Mattes.
It consists of digital channels that facilitate the passage of data, in this case of an invisible image, which will be sent casually to guests via AirDrop from the two artists’ personal phones — an idea stemming from the common practice among teenagers of exploiting crowds to AirDrop digital materials.
The initiative aims to create human connections in a place, such as a fair, where everything is usually based on commercial transactions only. The idea, at the end, is that everyone, even if not a collector, can have the opportunity to have a unique artistic content.
Over the years, Miart has developed a series of prizes and commissions to support the artists featured at the fair. MSGM founder and creative director Massimo Giorgetti will launch a prize in his name to support young artists at the beginning of their careers.
The winner will be an emerging artist who will pocket 5,000 euros for research and activities.
Miart will run April 14 to 16 in Milan.
Giorgetti has been supporting the arts and in 2019 decided to put the former headquarters of his label, located in Milan’s Porta Romana area, at the disposal of a group of art experts to inaugurate an innovative cultural hub called Ordet.
Ordet was conceived as an experimental art center that thanks to the support of prestigious institutions — including the Kunsthalle Basel; Frankfurt’s Städelschule; Singapore’s Centre for Contemporary Art; Basel’s FHNW Academy of Art and Design; London’s Tate Modern; the Walker Art Center of Minneapolis and Pivô in São Paulo — would promote the exchange of art and culture contents through exhibitions, talks and special events.
Published
2 days agoon
March 31, 2023By
ironity
MOUNT BALMAIN: Balmain has moved its London store, but it hasn’t gone far.
The brand, which opened a flagship on South Audley Street in 2015, has moved around the corner to 94 Mount Street, with neighbors including Simone Rocha and Marni.
Balmain’s new, 1,077-square-foot store houses the women’s, men’s and accessories collections, and there is also a private suite for VIP appointments.
The store soft launched earlier in March, with creative director Olivier Rousteing officially cutting the ribbon this week with a cocktail for customers and a small, private dinner for friends and collaborators.
The interior of Balmain’s new store on London’s Mount Street.
“Knowing that London is such an important destination for both British and international fashion lovers, it was very important for me and my team to create this special, one-of-a-kind environment, where we could welcome our guests into a distinctly Balmain universe,” said Balmain chief executive officer Jean-Jacques Guevel.
Guevel said the interior of the new store was “directly inspired by the look and feel of Rousteing’s fitting rooms, where he and the house’s artisans oversee the final touches needed to perfect each new collections’ offerings. By channeling that unique house space, we not only have the opportunity to present our latest designs, we can also take advantage of that interior design to spotlight what truly sets today’s Balmain apart.”
Balmain has moved to Mount Street from nearby South Audley Street.
The Mount Street space has in the past housed Pringle as well as an art gallery. The new store sits across the street from Scott’s and is a few steps from the Connaught Hotel, Christian Louboutin and Creed Fragrances.
To mark the opening, Rousteing held a private dinner at Apollo’s Muse, Richard Caring’s new private members club, with guests including Jourdan Dunn, Maria-Olympia of Greece, Poppy Delevingne, Isamaya Ffrench and Sam McKnight.
Published
2 days agoon
March 31, 2023By
ironity
POWER COUPLE: To mark the centenary of the Villa Noailles, the modernist home built by art patrons Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles in the southern French town of Hyères, Chanel hosted a musical performance on Thursday at the 7L library in Paris, in the space that used to be Karl Lagerfeld’s photo studio.
Shelves lined with a staggering 33,000 books provided the backdrop for a preview of “Ressusciter la Rose,” the opera based on an original idea by Jean-Pierre Blanc, director of the Villa Noailles and founder of the annual Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories.
“The place where we are tonight is unique,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion and president of Chanel SAS. “It reflects its creator’s immense culture and insatiable curiosity for all the arts, including music, song, architecture, design and dance.”
Performers including French singer Camélia Jordana sang excerpts of the work, composed by Raphaël Lucas, dressed in white costumes created by artist Jacques Merle and embroidered by Montex, one of a stable of workshops owned by Chanel.
Members of the Wonsembe acrobatics troupe tumbled through the room as part of the spectacle, which will be performed in full on Sept. 16, 17 and 18 at the Villa Noailles.
It was part of a program of satellite events in Paris, Hyères and Marseille to mark the kick-off of the centenary celebrations, a multipronged affair that will also include a documentary film by Karim Zeriahen, and an exhibition dedicated to the wardrobe of Marie-Laure de Noailles.
The poster for the centenary of the Villa Noailles.
Courtesy of Chanel
“If people still talk about the Noailles today, it’s because they played a huge part in our country’s artistic activity in the early 20th century, and they had this extraordinary aura that few other art patrons enjoyed, at a time when the Culture Ministry did not exist,” Blanc told WWD.
“They supported these artists not just for one-off events, but almost their whole lives, by providing for them financially and nurturing their artistic endeavors, and that is really exceptional,” he added.
Among the artists the couple hosted at the Bauhaus-inspired villa, designed by architect Robert Mallet-Stevens, were Man Ray, Luis Buñuel, Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau.
Lagerfeld was among those fascinated with the place. In 1995 he published a book of photographs of the Villa Noailles, which had fallen into abandon before its 2003 renovation, and in 2015, he was the artistic director of the Hyères Festival. “Karl Lagerfeld changed the course of my life,” said Blanc.
Chanel is a major sponsor of the centenary, and 7L will publish new editions of the poems and novels of Marie-Laure de Noailles, who traveled in the same circles as founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and regularly wore the designer’s haute couture creations.
In Paris, several galleries and institutions launched teaser events on Thursday. The India Mahdavi gallery is hosting screenings of “Les Mystères du Château de Dé,” a 1929 film shot by Man Ray at the Villa Noailles, while the Galerie du Passage has photographs of Marie-Laure de Noailles by the likes of Willy Maywald and François-Marie Banier.
Purchased by the city of Hyères in 1973, the Villa Noailles is set to undergo another round of renovations starting next year.
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