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Hermès International and Mason Rothschild Ready for Another Legal Bout

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The legal battle between Hermès International and Mason Rothschild has taken another turn with the artist calling for a new judgment and trial.

Last month, a Manhattan federal jury ruled that Rothschild was liable for trademark infringement, trademark dilution and cybersquatting, and Hermès was awarded $133,000 in damages. Earlier this month, the luxury house went a step further and filed a preliminary motion in the U.S. District Court for the Southern District of New York for a permanent injunction to try to stop Rothschild from selling and promoting his “MetaBirkin” non-fungible tokens.

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Hermès had sued the 28-year-old artist, whose given name is Sonny Estival, for creating and selling 100 MetaBirkins — colorful faux-fur Birkin bag-inspired NFTs — in November 2021. The luxury brand contended the NFTs confused consumers, diluted the brand and impacted its in-the-works plans for NFTs. Rothschild and his legal team have insisted that the two-dimensional digital tokens were a commentary on fashion’s fur-free initiative, an experiment in replicating the luxury handbag’s perceived value and an act of artistic expression that is protected under the first amendment. The artist, who is also cofounder of the store, gallery and event space Terminal27 in Los Angeles, was compared to Pop Art artist Andy Warhol for his silkscreen series of Campbell Soup cans.

Hermes’ bestselling Birkin handbag has been a windfall for sales, generating more than $1 billion in volume over the past 10 years, according to Hermès executives’ testimony last month.

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Rothschild’s renewed motion for judgment makes good on a post-ruling vow by one of his lawyers, Rhett O. Millsaps 2nd of Lex Lumina, that further legal action would follow. Rothschild’s legal team argues that the court’s instructions to the jury were improperly structured. Other claims included the First Amendment is not “a defense to trademark claims” but a rule of construction that shapes the plaintiff’s prima facie case — the establishment of a legally required rebuttable presumption. They also suggested that Hermès’ cybersquatting claim was unsupported by evidence and was inconsistent with the First Amendment.

Rothschild’s legal team challenged the judge’s decision to not allow testimony from contemporary art critic Blake Gopnik, whose work has appeared in The Washington Post, Newsweek and The New York Times, and whose portfolio includes a comprehensive biography of Warhol. Rothschild’s latest filings include claims that court’s “wrongful exclusion” of Gopnik “prejudiced” [the jury against] Rothschild.

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In Tuesday’s opposition to Hermès’ permanent injunction, Rothschild’s lawyers requested that the court deny Hermès’ request for equitable relief. Should that not happen, they requested that the court grant Rothschild’s proposed order requiring the use of a clear disclaimer in connection with the promotion and sales of “MetaBirkins” NFT artworks.

Representatives at Baker & Hostetler LLP, which is representing Hermès, declined comment Wednesday.

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Asked about the likelihood of Rothschild receiving another judgment or trial, Daniel Tysver, an intellectual property lawyer who does a lot of work in NFTs and blockchains at Forsgren Fisher, said his feeling was that the judge [Jed Rakoff] had given significant thought to the jury’s instructions, which would make it “relatively unlikely” that he would double back on that and allow for a new trial. “But this does set the stage for what the arguments will be on an appeal, when it goes up to the second circuit,” he said.

Another key challenge is Rothschild’s lawyers claim that “when instructing the jury, the court failed to implement the ‘Rogers’ test, instead instructing the jury that it could hold Rothschild liable if it found that he intended to confuse consumers.”

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The 1989 “Rogers vs. Grimaldi” case established the Rogers test, or protecting uses of trademarks that implicate intellectual freedom issues. The actress and dancer Ginger Rogers sued Alberto Grimaldi and MGM over Federico Fellini’s film “Ginger and Fred” about two dancers. “The case was used for titles about movies but it’s been used to broadly set up this conflict between somebody’s trademark rights and another person’s right to create some kind of creative expression, whether it’s a movie, artwork or something along those lines. This case has been acknowledged to establish how you set up the rules to figure out, as in this case, is this trademark infringement, or is there some kind of First Amendment right to be able to use this trademark in association with your trademark expression,” Tysver said.

As for what this bodes for future cases, Tysver said, “The basic understanding is there are some limits to what you can do to someone else’s trademarks, particularly in the NFT area. If you are creating new NFTs and you are using someone else’s trademark in it to market someone’s NFTs, there are going to be limits, even if your NFTs are related to some kind of artistic work such as these furry versions of the Birkin purses. This case still stands for that. I don’t think that anything really changes with these latest filings. Even if Rothschild were to win and get a new trial, that doesn’t mean there is suddenly this unlimited, unfettered right to use other people’s trademarks.”

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Pratt Fashion to Honor Robin Givhan at Show, and Plans MFA Launch for 2024

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Pratt Institute plans to honor Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Robin Givhan during this spring’s Pratt Shows: Fashion.

Scheduled for May 10 at Pioneer Works in Brooklyn, the event will salute Givhan, The Washington Post’s senior critic-at-large, by presenting her with Pratt’s Fashion Visionary Award. With work that encompasses politics, race and the arts, Givhan has been celebrated for her groundbreaking fashion criticism. That three-fold perspective appealed to Pratt.

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“Honoring her now is important as fashion education is undergoing a transformation in response to, and in dialogue with, politics,” race and the arts, according to Jennifer Minniti, chair of Pratt Fashion and inaugural Jane B. Nord Professor of Fashion Design.

After launching her career at the Detroit Free Press, Givhan has also written for such outlets as Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, The Daily Beast, Essence and New York magazine. She first joined The Washington Post in the mid-’90s and swiftly became an authoritative voice in the fashion industry with a wide-angled and connect-the-dots point of view. Last fall she was honored with the Editor Award from Harlem’s Fashion Row. Givhan’s also has written several books, including “The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled into the Spotlight and Made History,” which was published by Flatiron Books in 2016.

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Minniti described Givhan as “one of the foremost fashion writers and critics of our generation” whose insight into fashion as culture “reflects the ethos of the fashion department and our new MFA in Fashion Collection + Communication.”

For fall 2024, Pratt’s School of Design will be offering this new MFA, which is targeted at a wide range of creatives including designers, curators, performance artists, theorists and educators. The objective is to address the movement underfoot to redefine fashion not just in terms of production and conceptualization but also through social critique. Describing the new MFA as “a call to action,” Minniti said, “We had a lot of time, during the past three years, to reflect upon fashion practice and fashion education — and the urgent need for change.”

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Designed to be “trans-disciplinary,” the two-year, 60-credit program is built “around dynamic elective pathways” that are meant to be an innovative new model “that will empower participants to tailor their graduate education to their own areas of focus, including photography, education, film, curation, and performance.”

Currently the Brooklyn-based Pratt Institute has about 4,300 undergraduate and graduate students studying art, design, architecture, information and digital innovation and liberal arts and sciences.

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Under the new MFA program, students will embark on research, studio work and self-directed studies with input from Pratt Fashion faculty, scholars and industry peers. By doing so, the new MFA candidates will develop relationships with leaders in sustainability, human rights and social justice, and create partnerships with local and global organizations that are “transforming fashion systems,” Minniti said.

The launch of the MFA “brings renewed attention to the role of social critique in fashion — and Robin Givhan’s extensive body of work in this area is deserving of recognition now more than ever,” she said.

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This spring’s event in Brooklyn will also feature the work of select Pratt seniors in the school’s 122nd annual show. Billed as “Assemblage,” the runway show will include eight to 15 looks from the featured collections. Accessories will also be in the mix. Inventiveness is a key part of the equation since the school’s fashion program blends illustration, photography, film, performance, visual studies and material culture.

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Saks Toasts 20th Anniversary of Nili Lotan

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Ahead of her upcoming 20th anniversary in business, Nili Lotan partnered with Saks for a celebratory dinner Thursday evening. Held at the fourth floor walkup Jacqueline Sullivan Gallery, guests like Jacqueline Jablonski, Colin King, Alex Tieghi-Walker, Beverly Nguyen, DeVonn Francis, Anh Duong, Alexander Roth and Saks’ Roopal Patel and Tracy Margolies were treated to a special dinner by former Bon Appetit editor Andy Baraghani. Nili Lotan has been carried by Saks for roughly a year and a half.

The art gallery venue is in Tribeca, where Lotan has lived since 2006.

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“I am a Tribeca queen,” the designer said during cocktails. “I live in Tribeca, my studio is in Tribeca, my store is in Tribeca. As a matter of fact, my studio was right next door to this gallery before the galleries were here. At one point there was a developer who brought all these galleries here. So I know this street by heart.”

She loves the “unpretentious and laid back” nature of the neighborhood, noting her local haunts include The Odeon, where she is “almost every night.”

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Adding a personal touch to the night was the custom plates at each place setting, designed with a motif Lotan’s mother had done years prior. 

“My mom was a textile designer who never pursued her career. In her 20s she was caught in a war in Europe and immigrated to Israel, and had very limited possibilities to pursue her talents,” Lotan explained. “I wanted to honor her here because it’s a milestone in my career and I wanted her to be here.”

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Andy Baraghani

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SINNA NASSERI

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Nili Lotan and her daughter Mia Lotan.

SINNA NASSERI

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Antonio Marras Opens First Flagship in Rome 

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BACK IN ROME: Antonio Marras has opened his namesake brand’s first store in Rome, which kicks off the distribution boost promised by the company’s new owner Gruppo Calzedonia

Located in the luxury shopping street Via dei Condotti, the store marks a return to the Eternal City for the designer, who almost 30 years ago presented his first Alta Moda couture creations in Via Margutta, a stone’s throw from the retail space. 

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“It was right and proper to be back here,” said Marras about the store, which quietly opened at the beginning of the month and will be officially celebrated with an event on Thursday. 

Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

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Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

Courtesy of Antonio Marras

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The unit carries both women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections and accessories, as well as the designer’s artistic home objects and ceramics. These are flanked by books, drawings and portraits that Marras sketched exclusively for the store and that punctuate the location, further amplifying the feeling of stepping into a house rather than in a retail space. 

Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

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Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

Courtesy of Antonio Marras

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A series of black-and-white rugs realized by a Sardinian craftsman based on Marras’ designs cover the marble flooring, while essential displays, wooden furniture and brass lamps finish off the interior concept. 

Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

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Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

Courtesy of Antonio Marras

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As reported earlier this year, the brand was previously mainly distributed through the wholesale channel and Gruppo Calzedonia’s chairman Sandro Veronesi is committed to building a retail network. For one, Veronesi plans to emphasize the importance of the designer’s atelier in Alghero, in Sardinia, aiming to double the space of the boutique there and to refurbish it.  

A store in Italy’s resort town Forte dei Marmi in early June and one in Venice will follow the opening in Rome. Other units opening in the fall might involve Florence or Naples, while a retail space in Milan is planned for early 2024. 

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The Antonio Marras store in Rome.

The Antonio Marras store in Rome.

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Courtesy of Antonio Marras

Based in Verona, the hosiery, innerwear and swimwear group Gruppo Calzedonia acquired an 80 percent stake in Marras’ namesake brand last year, since then providing its retail and production experience, in addition to its financial muscle, to develop the label. The group also includes the Calzedonia, Intimissimi, Tezenis, Falconeri, Atelier Emé and Signorvino brands. 

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