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EXCLUSIVE: Celine Is Getting a Big Jump on Fall 2023

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Hedi Slimane is a tad late unveiling Celine’s spring 2023 collection, but he will be early — way early — with the one he’s designing for the following season.

WWD has learned that Slimane and Celine are plotting a fashion show in Los Angeles, California, on Dec. 8 to unveil the fall 2023 collection — more than two months before fashion weeks for that season kick off in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

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Meanwhile, the spring 2023 collection will be showcased as a film, to be streamed on Celine’s website and social platforms sometime during November — more than a month after Paris Fashion Week wrapped nearly a month of spring 2023 showings.

Celine’s spring 2023 collection was filmed on models in the south of France, but the precise timing and other details are still under wraps.

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Likewise, Celine did not disclose an exact location for the Los Angeles runway event.

California has become a hot spot for destination shows, with Ralph Lauren, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent among brands that have mounted runway displays there in recent years.

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Celine’s fall showing joins a smattering of itinerant runway events in early December, with Dior unveiling its pre-fall menswear in Egypt on Dec. 3 and Chanel its latest Métiers d’Art collection in Senegal.

A resident of Los Angeles throughout most of his years helming Saint Laurent, Slimane staged a big fashion show for that brand at The Hollywood Palladium in 2016.

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He joined Celine as its creative and image director in 2019, leading the brand into menswear, fragrances, beachwear, made-to-order crocodile handbags — and even pet accessories.

He’s also made off-calendar timings for collection unveilings a feature of his Celine, which recently has been going from strength to strength.

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Revealing its third-quarter sales results last month, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said revenues grew 24 percent in its fashion and leather goods division, and trumpeted very strong growth at Celine.

Slimane’s obsession with L.A. subculture and the cool kids in the indie rock scene preceded his arrival at Yves Saint Laurent in 2012, and stretch back to his influential stint as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007.

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“I arrived in California in 2008, and I was already very attracted to Los Angeles, where I frequently went since the end of the 1990s,” he told French newspaper Le Figaro in 2018. “I would start all my Dior collections there, in my hotel room. The city was still asleep, so it was the perfect time to fill in a blank page. There was no creative or artistic stimulation yet, nor was there an emergence of a strong music scene.…[Los Angeles] has changed today. It’s been taken over and the authenticity is slowly getting lost because the megalopolis appeals to the world and the youth. Los Angeles is an open-air construction site and its mythical places are disappearing day by day.”

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Pratt Fashion to Honor Robin Givhan at Show, and Plans MFA Launch for 2024

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Pratt Institute plans to honor Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Robin Givhan during this spring’s Pratt Shows: Fashion.

Scheduled for May 10 at Pioneer Works in Brooklyn, the event will salute Givhan, The Washington Post’s senior critic-at-large, by presenting her with Pratt’s Fashion Visionary Award. With work that encompasses politics, race and the arts, Givhan has been celebrated for her groundbreaking fashion criticism. That three-fold perspective appealed to Pratt.

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“Honoring her now is important as fashion education is undergoing a transformation in response to, and in dialogue with, politics,” race and the arts, according to Jennifer Minniti, chair of Pratt Fashion and inaugural Jane B. Nord Professor of Fashion Design.

After launching her career at the Detroit Free Press, Givhan has also written for such outlets as Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, The Daily Beast, Essence and New York magazine. She first joined The Washington Post in the mid-’90s and swiftly became an authoritative voice in the fashion industry with a wide-angled and connect-the-dots point of view. Last fall she was honored with the Editor Award from Harlem’s Fashion Row. Givhan’s also has written several books, including “The Battle of Versailles: The Night American Fashion Stumbled into the Spotlight and Made History,” which was published by Flatiron Books in 2016.

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Minniti described Givhan as “one of the foremost fashion writers and critics of our generation” whose insight into fashion as culture “reflects the ethos of the fashion department and our new MFA in Fashion Collection + Communication.”

For fall 2024, Pratt’s School of Design will be offering this new MFA, which is targeted at a wide range of creatives including designers, curators, performance artists, theorists and educators. The objective is to address the movement underfoot to redefine fashion not just in terms of production and conceptualization but also through social critique. Describing the new MFA as “a call to action,” Minniti said, “We had a lot of time, during the past three years, to reflect upon fashion practice and fashion education — and the urgent need for change.”

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Designed to be “trans-disciplinary,” the two-year, 60-credit program is built “around dynamic elective pathways” that are meant to be an innovative new model “that will empower participants to tailor their graduate education to their own areas of focus, including photography, education, film, curation, and performance.”

Currently the Brooklyn-based Pratt Institute has about 4,300 undergraduate and graduate students studying art, design, architecture, information and digital innovation and liberal arts and sciences.

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Under the new MFA program, students will embark on research, studio work and self-directed studies with input from Pratt Fashion faculty, scholars and industry peers. By doing so, the new MFA candidates will develop relationships with leaders in sustainability, human rights and social justice, and create partnerships with local and global organizations that are “transforming fashion systems,” Minniti said.

The launch of the MFA “brings renewed attention to the role of social critique in fashion — and Robin Givhan’s extensive body of work in this area is deserving of recognition now more than ever,” she said.

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This spring’s event in Brooklyn will also feature the work of select Pratt seniors in the school’s 122nd annual show. Billed as “Assemblage,” the runway show will include eight to 15 looks from the featured collections. Accessories will also be in the mix. Inventiveness is a key part of the equation since the school’s fashion program blends illustration, photography, film, performance, visual studies and material culture.

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Saks Toasts 20th Anniversary of Nili Lotan

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Ahead of her upcoming 20th anniversary in business, Nili Lotan partnered with Saks for a celebratory dinner Thursday evening. Held at the fourth floor walkup Jacqueline Sullivan Gallery, guests like Jacqueline Jablonski, Colin King, Alex Tieghi-Walker, Beverly Nguyen, DeVonn Francis, Anh Duong, Alexander Roth and Saks’ Roopal Patel and Tracy Margolies were treated to a special dinner by former Bon Appetit editor Andy Baraghani. Nili Lotan has been carried by Saks for roughly a year and a half.

The art gallery venue is in Tribeca, where Lotan has lived since 2006.

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“I am a Tribeca queen,” the designer said during cocktails. “I live in Tribeca, my studio is in Tribeca, my store is in Tribeca. As a matter of fact, my studio was right next door to this gallery before the galleries were here. At one point there was a developer who brought all these galleries here. So I know this street by heart.”

She loves the “unpretentious and laid back” nature of the neighborhood, noting her local haunts include The Odeon, where she is “almost every night.”

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Adding a personal touch to the night was the custom plates at each place setting, designed with a motif Lotan’s mother had done years prior. 

“My mom was a textile designer who never pursued her career. In her 20s she was caught in a war in Europe and immigrated to Israel, and had very limited possibilities to pursue her talents,” Lotan explained. “I wanted to honor her here because it’s a milestone in my career and I wanted her to be here.”

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Andy Baraghani

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SINNA NASSERI

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Nili Lotan and her daughter Mia Lotan.

SINNA NASSERI

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Antonio Marras Opens First Flagship in Rome 

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BACK IN ROME: Antonio Marras has opened his namesake brand’s first store in Rome, which kicks off the distribution boost promised by the company’s new owner Gruppo Calzedonia

Located in the luxury shopping street Via dei Condotti, the store marks a return to the Eternal City for the designer, who almost 30 years ago presented his first Alta Moda couture creations in Via Margutta, a stone’s throw from the retail space. 

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“It was right and proper to be back here,” said Marras about the store, which quietly opened at the beginning of the month and will be officially celebrated with an event on Thursday. 

Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

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Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

Courtesy of Antonio Marras

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The unit carries both women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections and accessories, as well as the designer’s artistic home objects and ceramics. These are flanked by books, drawings and portraits that Marras sketched exclusively for the store and that punctuate the location, further amplifying the feeling of stepping into a house rather than in a retail space. 

Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

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Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

Courtesy of Antonio Marras

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A series of black-and-white rugs realized by a Sardinian craftsman based on Marras’ designs cover the marble flooring, while essential displays, wooden furniture and brass lamps finish off the interior concept. 

Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

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Inside the Antonio Marras store in Rome.

Courtesy of Antonio Marras

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As reported earlier this year, the brand was previously mainly distributed through the wholesale channel and Gruppo Calzedonia’s chairman Sandro Veronesi is committed to building a retail network. For one, Veronesi plans to emphasize the importance of the designer’s atelier in Alghero, in Sardinia, aiming to double the space of the boutique there and to refurbish it.  

A store in Italy’s resort town Forte dei Marmi in early June and one in Venice will follow the opening in Rome. Other units opening in the fall might involve Florence or Naples, while a retail space in Milan is planned for early 2024. 

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The Antonio Marras store in Rome.

The Antonio Marras store in Rome.

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Courtesy of Antonio Marras

Based in Verona, the hosiery, innerwear and swimwear group Gruppo Calzedonia acquired an 80 percent stake in Marras’ namesake brand last year, since then providing its retail and production experience, in addition to its financial muscle, to develop the label. The group also includes the Calzedonia, Intimissimi, Tezenis, Falconeri, Atelier Emé and Signorvino brands. 

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