Maddie Ziegler
Stéphane Feugère/WWD
Published
4 weeks agoon
By
ironity
FLOWING LOCKS: “It’s more eccentric, more eclectic, and celebrating that sense of play as well,” Victoria Beckham said after her fall 2023 runway show. “I love the tailoring; it is really celebrating the journey that the tailor goes through showing all of the details.”
This season she added hair as a texture, flowing from dresses, used as accents and even draped over models’ clavicles in soft waves as a necklace. Beckham was inspired by works she had seen at Art Basel Miami a few years ago to play with the unusual texture, incorporating it into crocheted dresses.
There were also several looks upturned with wire for an undulating hem.
“I always wanted to dream and when I was standing backstage and I saw those dresses come out with all of the details, with the feather detail and turn exposing the lining, for me that was everything. That’s me dreaming, really.”
The show came at a triumphant moment, just following the announcement that the brand has turned a profit for the first time.
Most of the Beckham clan was there to celebrate, with David, sons Cruz and Brooklyn, along with his wife Nicola Peltz, and young daughter Harper. Cruz was dressed in head-to-toe VB logo denim with a resin finish, and a crossbody strap bag. Beckham told WWD he had designed the jeans and snap-front jacket coordinates outfit himself, while Cruz whispered to front row guests that he has been encouraging his mom to add menswear.
The busy designer didn’t seem too keen to add more to her plate, joking: “Well, then maybe Cruz should be the creative director of it.”
Beckham’s longtime best friend Eva Longoria flew in just for the day to see the show, and had also been at the brand’s debut last season. “I thought, how is she ever going to top that show, and I think she just did it,” she said.
“I’m literally texting her already, ‘That coat is mine.’ But I’m lucky that I just get to grab her stuff. I go into her closet and borrow.”
Longoria was headed directly to the airport to prepare for the SXSW film festival, where her directorial debut “Flamin’ Hot” will premiere. “It’s very exciting, nervous excitement. I’m very nervous,” she said of anticipating the March 11 screening. — Rhonda Richford
ALIEN CHIC: Maddie Ziegler has been making the most of fashion weeks, attending shows in New York before hitting Paris for the Acne Studios and Giambattista Valli shows.
She’s been taking some bold beauty risks, bleaching her brows earlier in the week. “I felt like I was a completely different person, and it was so much fun to just be a chameleon and change into something completely different. I felt like an alien, but in a good way.”
Maddie Ziegler
Stéphane Feugère/WWD
She was back to brown brows by Friday afternoon after a morning dye session.
The dancer has also been taking some sartorial risks with more masculine-style suiting for the shows, but sported a green-and-gold miniskirt set, topped with a pink satin coat. “I’ve really been playing up the masculinity. Recently I’ve been more tomboy, which has been really fun,” she said, but she reveled in the chance to put on something more feminine for the Friday show.
There were plenty of looks to choose from no matter which way she’s feeling, as Valli showed not only sequined and slinky gowns, full skirts and lots of lace, but also knitwear on men that could bring the comfort for anyone.
Ziegler will be premiering her new film “Bloody Hell” at SXSW, the biographical tale of writer Molly McGlynn being diagnosed with a reproductive condition. “It’s an emotionally challenging role but I’m very excited for people to see that side of me.”
Ziegler sat front row with Chinese superstar Fan Bingbing, who has returned to fashion week after a long absence, while the fashion crowd waited a painful 40 minutes for the show to get on the road. — R.R.
FASHION SHOWCASE: Seven Ukrainian designers will showcase their fall 2023 collections during Paris Fashion Week from Friday through Tuesday, based at 7 Rue d’Argenteuil.
With the support of USAID Competitive Economy Program in Ukraine, the designers will showcase demi-couture, ready-to-wear and footwear collections.
A look from Chereshnivska.
courtesy shot.
Among the brands are Frolov, a “couture-to-wear” brand; Kachorovska, the largest Ukrainian footwear brand, My Sleeping Gypsy, a sustainable brand, and Chereshnivska, a Ukraine-based unisex and sustainable brand that features hand-drawn prints using recycled materials. In addition are brands Katerina Kvit, a label that makes leather products, Paskal, a high-fashion and rtw brand, and Olena Dats’, a fashion brand that makes evening dresses.
The project was curated by Jen Sidary, who has been working with Ukraine’s fashion industry since 2020, before the war, and developed the idea to showcase the country’s fashion industry at fashion weeks for the first time in September 2021. Sidary also launched a global e-commerce website, angelsforfashion.com, built for Ukrainian designers in April 2022, supporting 30-plus brands to ensure they survive the war.
“I have huge respect for all the people of Ukraine and for how they are adapting their lives to survive and continue to grow,” Sidary said. “I have discovered a hidden gem which is where much of the world’s history began but many of us just didn’t know it. Ukraine’s fashion industry is one I want to work with for the rest of my career.”
This is the fifth time USAID Competitive Economy Program has supported this project and its second season in Paris. — Lisa Lockwood
NOT CAMERA SHY: Notoriously reclusive musician Bob Dylan is the latest artist to sit for Hedi Slimane in his “Portrait Of” series for Celine, in which he lenses artists, musicians and actors spanning the generations.
Bob Dylan shot by Hedi Slimane.
Slimane shot the legendary folk musician in his hometown of Malibu, California, in December, wearing designs from the Celine Homme collection.
Celine Homme’s spring 2023 campaign, showcasing skaters in an outdoor setting, was also shot there in December.
While 81-year-old Dylan, who won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 2016 for his contribution to songwriting thanks to hits including “Blowin’ in the Wind” and “Mr. Tambourine Man,” continues to tour onstage, he otherwise rarely appears in front of the camera, with the exception of concert footage.
One exception was Richard Marquand’s 1987 movie “Hearts of Fire,” in which he played a former rock star-turned-recluse.
The musician has nevertheless met with success in recent years for his work as a visual artist and author, and his most recent book, “Philosophy of Modern Song,” was released in November.
In one of the two black-and-white shots released, Dylan poses in a rocking chair in dappled sunlight in a black leather jacket and shades, a Gibson electric guitar in hand. In the second, he is seen with an acoustic guitar, against a dark background.
Slimane does not just champion a rock aesthetic in his collections. His links with the music world go way back. He is known for spanning genres and picturing young unknowns as often as music legends in his pictures.
Recent images in his “Portraits Of” series for Celine include Julian Casablancas of The Strokes, Paul Banks and Martin Rev.
In the past, music legends including Dylan’s peers Lou Reed and Keith Richards have sat for the designer and photographer, as have Marilyn Manson, the late Amy Winehouse and Pete Doherty, for example. — Alex Wynne
PUP PEACOATS: Fashion designer Jeffrey Banks will assume the role of chief creative officer of K9Wear, a pet fashion company. He will be responsible for K9Wear designs, his own line, as well as all brand collaborations.
Banks has been involved with K9Wear since 2020 as a design collaborator and has designed dog clothing for the company, including a jean jacket, a waxed cotton quilted jacket, peacoat and a wool duffle coat.
K9Wear has created the first patent-pending hybrid dog harness with clothes over it, meant so the dog doesn’t know it is wearing clothes.
“We’re truly honored to have such a legendary fashion designer at the forefront of our company’s designs,” said James Straggas, founder of K9Wear. “His creativity, insight, talent and innate fashion sense will take K9to the next level — and beyond.”
Banks started out as a design assistant to both Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein before launching his own signature Jeffrey Banks Signature Men’s Wear collection in 1977, consisting of tailored clothing, dress furnishings and sportswear. He subsequently added boyswear in 1982 and womenswear in 1984. He has also been a designer for Merona Sport Men’s, Women’s and Kids, and is the recipient of two Coty Awards and a CFDA Special Anniversary Award, which he received last November.
“It’s exciting to be a part of the pet world business,” Banks said. “K9Wear products are designed with tremendous integrity, which is why I am thrilled to be working with them.”
Under Banks’ direction, K9Wear plans to offer dog leashes, beds, toys and “owner and me” outfits, in addition to the company’s signature military-grade breathable mesh harness.
Banks will be involved with the K9Wear line, his own line, as well as collaborations with brands such as Badgley Mischka, Josie Natori, True Religion and Tommy Bahama. Several brands are already on board, “and more brands want to join us,” Banks said. He said the company is based in New York and manufactures both in New York and overseas.
K9Wear recently teamed up with Frank Cammarata, a New England businessman and principal and chief executive officer of The Enjoiya Group, for a Series A meant to enable the company “to grow at an accelerated rate,” Straggas said. — L.L.
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SUPPORTING ART: Fashion, technology and art are teaming up for a site-specific project. For the first time, MSGM is sponsoring Miart, Milan’s international modern and contemporary art fair, commissioning an installation by artists Eva & Franco Mattes.
It consists of digital channels that facilitate the passage of data, in this case of an invisible image, which will be sent casually to guests via AirDrop from the two artists’ personal phones — an idea stemming from the common practice among teenagers of exploiting crowds to AirDrop digital materials.
The initiative aims to create human connections in a place, such as a fair, where everything is usually based on commercial transactions only. The idea, at the end, is that everyone, even if not a collector, can have the opportunity to have a unique artistic content.
Over the years, Miart has developed a series of prizes and commissions to support the artists featured at the fair. MSGM founder and creative director Massimo Giorgetti will launch a prize in his name to support young artists at the beginning of their careers.
The winner will be an emerging artist who will pocket 5,000 euros for research and activities.
Miart will run April 14 to 16 in Milan.
Giorgetti has been supporting the arts and in 2019 decided to put the former headquarters of his label, located in Milan’s Porta Romana area, at the disposal of a group of art experts to inaugurate an innovative cultural hub called Ordet.
Ordet was conceived as an experimental art center that thanks to the support of prestigious institutions — including the Kunsthalle Basel; Frankfurt’s Städelschule; Singapore’s Centre for Contemporary Art; Basel’s FHNW Academy of Art and Design; London’s Tate Modern; the Walker Art Center of Minneapolis and Pivô in São Paulo — would promote the exchange of art and culture contents through exhibitions, talks and special events.
Published
1 day agoon
March 31, 2023By
ironity
MOUNT BALMAIN: Balmain has moved its London store, but it hasn’t gone far.
The brand, which opened a flagship on South Audley Street in 2015, has moved around the corner to 94 Mount Street, with neighbors including Simone Rocha and Marni.
Balmain’s new, 1,077-square-foot store houses the women’s, men’s and accessories collections, and there is also a private suite for VIP appointments.
The store soft launched earlier in March, with creative director Olivier Rousteing officially cutting the ribbon this week with a cocktail for customers and a small, private dinner for friends and collaborators.
The interior of Balmain’s new store on London’s Mount Street.
“Knowing that London is such an important destination for both British and international fashion lovers, it was very important for me and my team to create this special, one-of-a-kind environment, where we could welcome our guests into a distinctly Balmain universe,” said Balmain chief executive officer Jean-Jacques Guevel.
Guevel said the interior of the new store was “directly inspired by the look and feel of Rousteing’s fitting rooms, where he and the house’s artisans oversee the final touches needed to perfect each new collections’ offerings. By channeling that unique house space, we not only have the opportunity to present our latest designs, we can also take advantage of that interior design to spotlight what truly sets today’s Balmain apart.”
Balmain has moved to Mount Street from nearby South Audley Street.
The Mount Street space has in the past housed Pringle as well as an art gallery. The new store sits across the street from Scott’s and is a few steps from the Connaught Hotel, Christian Louboutin and Creed Fragrances.
To mark the opening, Rousteing held a private dinner at Apollo’s Muse, Richard Caring’s new private members club, with guests including Jourdan Dunn, Maria-Olympia of Greece, Poppy Delevingne, Isamaya Ffrench and Sam McKnight.
Published
1 day agoon
March 31, 2023By
ironity
POWER COUPLE: To mark the centenary of the Villa Noailles, the modernist home built by art patrons Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles in the southern French town of Hyères, Chanel hosted a musical performance on Thursday at the 7L library in Paris, in the space that used to be Karl Lagerfeld’s photo studio.
Shelves lined with a staggering 33,000 books provided the backdrop for a preview of “Ressusciter la Rose,” the opera based on an original idea by Jean-Pierre Blanc, director of the Villa Noailles and founder of the annual Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories.
“The place where we are tonight is unique,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion and president of Chanel SAS. “It reflects its creator’s immense culture and insatiable curiosity for all the arts, including music, song, architecture, design and dance.”
Performers including French singer Camélia Jordana sang excerpts of the work, composed by Raphaël Lucas, dressed in white costumes created by artist Jacques Merle and embroidered by Montex, one of a stable of workshops owned by Chanel.
Members of the Wonsembe acrobatics troupe tumbled through the room as part of the spectacle, which will be performed in full on Sept. 16, 17 and 18 at the Villa Noailles.
It was part of a program of satellite events in Paris, Hyères and Marseille to mark the kick-off of the centenary celebrations, a multipronged affair that will also include a documentary film by Karim Zeriahen, and an exhibition dedicated to the wardrobe of Marie-Laure de Noailles.
The poster for the centenary of the Villa Noailles.
Courtesy of Chanel
“If people still talk about the Noailles today, it’s because they played a huge part in our country’s artistic activity in the early 20th century, and they had this extraordinary aura that few other art patrons enjoyed, at a time when the Culture Ministry did not exist,” Blanc told WWD.
“They supported these artists not just for one-off events, but almost their whole lives, by providing for them financially and nurturing their artistic endeavors, and that is really exceptional,” he added.
Among the artists the couple hosted at the Bauhaus-inspired villa, designed by architect Robert Mallet-Stevens, were Man Ray, Luis Buñuel, Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau.
Lagerfeld was among those fascinated with the place. In 1995 he published a book of photographs of the Villa Noailles, which had fallen into abandon before its 2003 renovation, and in 2015, he was the artistic director of the Hyères Festival. “Karl Lagerfeld changed the course of my life,” said Blanc.
Chanel is a major sponsor of the centenary, and 7L will publish new editions of the poems and novels of Marie-Laure de Noailles, who traveled in the same circles as founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and regularly wore the designer’s haute couture creations.
In Paris, several galleries and institutions launched teaser events on Thursday. The India Mahdavi gallery is hosting screenings of “Les Mystères du Château de Dé,” a 1929 film shot by Man Ray at the Villa Noailles, while the Galerie du Passage has photographs of Marie-Laure de Noailles by the likes of Willy Maywald and François-Marie Banier.
Purchased by the city of Hyères in 1973, the Villa Noailles is set to undergo another round of renovations starting next year.
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