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Dundas RTW Fall 2023

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On Monday night, Peter Dundas returned to the runway in Paris after a four-year hiatus, flooding the gilded interior of the Opera Palais Garnier in red light for his sultry collection of seafarer and siren looks, which nodded to his Norwegian upbringing.

In recent seasons the now Los Angeles-based designer has said his eveningwear fans have been asking for more from him, so he started expanding his tailoring offerings, using skills culled while working with Jean Paul Gaultier, among others.

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Inspired by his family’s connection to the sea, including his father’s career as a naval officer and uncles who were ship captains, he opened with a group of long and lean great coats, capes, structured suits and sailor pants (worn with cable knit tank body suits, natch), picking up on the uniform trend that’s been in the air this runway season.

For knitwear, Dundas looked to his grandma’s hand-knitted Fair Isles, which in his hands became a sexy sweater and matching bikini briefs. And Celtic symbols adorned burnout velvet dresses with the feel of negligees.

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In keeping with Dundas’ reputation for seriously sexy gowns, sheer bias-cut looks with cutouts, lace and web panels were as revealing as anything we’ve seen on the runway this month, with just thongs worn underneath. Even Jessica Stam’s cadet blue backless column dress had a G-string peeking out.

“We love having shows where it feels right. We haven’t been here in a while, I lived here 20 years, it’s kind of my hometown,” the designer said before being hurried off by well-wishers congratulating him, and cooing over his 18-month-old son Alexios, who was dressed appropriately in a pint-size sailor outfit.

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It was nice to see him back in the City of (red) Light, though with Dundas now in L.A., more and more his brand is becoming synonymous with the work he does for celebrities like Shakira, Mary J. Blige and, most recently, Latto at the Grammys, not to mention the L.A. fixtures he’s cast in recent look books, including Paris Jackson and Heidi Klum. It seems like a miss not to have that earned brand currency front and center, as it could be with an L.A. runway event, for example.

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Georgia May Jagger Helps Brora Celebrate 30th Anniversary

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In an industry that is all about tomorrow, Brora is marking its 30th anniversary with a future spin.

The cashmere specialist’s founder and creative director Victoria Stapleton peered into the archives to select a favorite style from each year based on her preferences, as well as those of consumers and the company’s design team. Rather than reissue originals or let loose replicas, she reimagined the standouts for a 2023 collection.

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For example, Brora’s 2012 silk cotton waterfall dress has been updated by featuring the print in cobalt and fuchsia versus its original pastel hues. Another retooling can be seen in the brand’s signature cotton and jersey wave knit, which dates back to the ’90s. It has been refreshed in a mohair version. The idea is to illustrate how changing the cut and color of a well-loved garment can transform its look and feel, a company spokeswoman said.

To relay a more of-the-moment image, Brora enlisted Georgia May Jagger to model the heritage collection. (She is 31, but close enough.) Like the clothes that she wears, the fair-haired model’s mother Jerry Hall is a loyal Brora customer. Hall has received Brora gifts each year from her mother and has subsequently returned the favor.

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The model wears the reimagined “Waterfall” dress.

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While the Brora team knew that Hall was a customer, they didn’t learn that Jagger was one too until the shoot. The Brora spokeswoman explained, “Georgia said that when she was old enough, she took such pleasure in being able to afford to repay her mother’s kindness and buy her mother Brora items, too,” adding that she spoke of wanting to emulate her mother’s style as a child.

Her latest modeling gig is a first for both parties. Jagger also recently appeared in Burberry’s latest campaign.

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Brora has a reputation for its quality, with more than 50 processes needed to make a cashmere sweater, including several steps that require the human touch. Big on natural fibers, the company offers a good amount of its styles in Scottish cashmere, organic cotton, wool and linen. Brora is committed to working with craftspeople and artisans to create designs that are meant to last over time, while preserving traditional skills.

The retail prices for the 30-piece anniversary collection range from 79 pounds for a pair of cashmere wrist warmers to 449 pounds for a cashmere cardigan. There are also non-knitted options like an embroidered skirt, a silk star printed skirt and a cross-weave linen dress. The assortment is available online and can be found in the company’s nine freestanding stores including London ones on Sloane Square and on Marylebone High Street. It is also being sold in Brora’s boutiques in Bath, Edinburgh and New York’s Madison Avenue.

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Fear of God Sets First Fashion Show for April 19

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Fear of God designer Jerry Lorenzo will hold his first fashion show April 19.

The venue will be The Hollywood Bowl, the famed outdoor music venue which last year celebrated its 100th anniversary. The landmark has hosted concerts by Frank Sinatra, Judy Garland, Jimi Hendrix, The Doors, The Rolling Stones, Diana Ross, Dolly Parton and many more, but has only once hosted a fashion show.

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That was in 1993 when Calvin Klein staged a runway show with 350 models, 4,750 guests and a charity angle: the event raised $1 million for AIDS Project Los Angeles.

No other details were available about Lorenzo’s plans, or if the show will be open to the paying public as Klein’s was.

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The luxury label founded in 2013 has been on an upward trajectory the past few months. On March 8, Alfred Chang, PacSun’s co-chief executive officer for 17 years, joined Fear of God as chief executive offcer. “Bringing on board the right CEO to further build the organization, culture and resources was critical at this stage of the brand’s trajectory,” Lorenzo said.

In February, the brand took its first steps into retail with a pop-up shop opened in Hyundai Trade Center in Seoul. And in January, Fear of God introduced a buzzy collaboration with Birkenstock, a slide called the Los Feliz after the L.A. neighborhood.

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Lorenzo follows his own fashion calendar, and introduced his last collection, titled “Eternal,” in April 2022. That lineup included precision-cut cashmere-wool Chesterfield coats, double-breasted “California” blazers with notch lapels, and tricot ones with light shoulder padding. His zip-front Harrington jackets, loose-pleated trousers and suede espadrilles had a bit of an 1980s “Miami Vice” throwback jam. “I still watch it all the time,” he said of the TV show.

There were also sweats, bombers, polos and other wardrobing elements in soothing gradations of concrete, gray-olive, charcoal and black, that fit together like pieces in a Tetris game, as he described it.

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“It’s allowing the person to enter the room before the clothes,” he said. “But when you pay attention to what they have on it’s, oh, that’s beautiful.”

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The Rocket Man at Selfridges

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LONDON Selfridges Corner Shop is turning into an Elton John world.

The space is an homage to the British singer, who kicks off his “Farewell Yellow Brick Road” U.K. tour on Thursday.

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The Corner Shop features pieces from John’s archive, including a Nudie Cohn rhinestone suit and archival prints of the singer-songwriter onstage from his previous world tours.

The shop will be selling tour merchandise; eyewear from John’s eyewear brand, and Christopher Kane’s More Joy line, which has produced an exclusive collection of More Elton pieces.

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Elton John at the Corner Shop

Elton John at the Corner Shop.

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TIM CHARLES

Savile Row tailor Richard James has reissued Elton’s orange and pink polka dot suit from his 2001 “Got Milk?” ad campaign.

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Other brands such as KidSuper and FPM Milano have created exclusive product for the Corner Shop; Cent.Ldn has made an Elton-inspired candle; Moët & Chandon is doing limited-edition Champagne bottles, and ceramist ​​Laetitia Rouget is using Elton’s song titles on plates and more.

“We’ve been working closely with the teams at Selfridges and Bravado to create a unique experience that allows my fans to take a step into my world. I’m an avid shopper, so the bar has been set high and we’ve come up with something special that celebrates the things I love — fashion, vinyl, live music, food and some beautiful design,” said John in a statement.

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As part of the celebration, The Cinema at Selfridges will be hosting screenings of “Rocketman,” starring Taron Egerton.

According to reports, John has declined the invitation to perform at King Charles III’s coronation ceremony in May. John was a close friend of the late Princess Diana.

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