“I started thinking about planting our feet back into the scene and what that means, because we’ve kind of been taking a pause and reflecting. It feels like now’s the time to start leaning back into New York, so this is the beginning of an ode to New York,” Phillip Lim said during a preview in his Great Jones Street storefront, which was set up with an art installation of discarded chainlink rolled fences and bright yellow automobile parts surrounding his new collection.
To cement himself back into the city that birthed his namesake label 18 years ago, Lim expressed the importance of exploring all of the its dialogues.
“It’s so ephemeral, and a big conversation, but I think the thing is not to overthink what New York is. I think that’s the answer — the disparate ideas of the city of hopes, the city of dreams. Somewhere, somehow, someday, we’ll all be here. The ones that have been here have our own ideas of what our New York City dreams and life are, but there are elements that allow us to recognize each other and work through the beauty and the chaos, from the market totes to scraps of fabric we’ve been sitting on and turning into arts and crafts.”
Sporty T-shirts and market bags boasting souvenir memento-inspired New York City collaged graphics and naive bodega flower embroideries directly nodded to city nostalgia; dark abstract floral prints alluded to blurred city lights; star, stud and crown embellishments on his reworked Americana denim referenced the Statue of Liberty, and macrame layers derived from fabric scraps offered luxe takes on DIY style. Because Lim’s strong ideas were rendered with restraint, they played together in harmony to create an updated uniform.
There was also a presence of Broadway’s “West Side Story” for its “immigrant diaspora and looking at love against all odds, but in this context of the unfiltered reality of the city,” mixed with Lim’s signature romantic utility DNA, Victorian-era costumes and a continuation of the ‘90s pseudo grunge scene he’s been riffing on as of late, “because there’s always this rebellious nature with the people who come to New York totally.” For example, a fittingly all-black pretty cotton voile long-sleeve top and skirt with allover corset-inspired smocking and soft, voluminous sleeves with chunky combat boots and updated moto Padgley bag in nylon and leather, or a cool all-white recycled polyester smocked jacket with matching smocked cargo pants and delicate cotton voile tank.
From oversize utility jackets with midi utility skirts and relaxed trousers and crafty souvenir T-shirt slipdress to relaxed, sporty suiting, multitoned denim and softly romantic dresses, the collection embodied the eclectic spirit of the city that never sleeps in modern, fashionable ways.
LONDON –King Charles III has had his hands full this week bestowing honors on fashion and retail industry figures.
One day after handing Stella McCartney a CBE, or Commander of the Order of the British Empire, he received Marigay McKee at Windsor Castle, giving her an MBE, or Member of the Order of the British Empire.
McKee, who is British and lives in the U.S., was given the award for retail services overseas.
For the past decade, she has served as a trade ambassador for Great, a British government-backed international marketing campaign that encourages people to visit, do business, invest and study in the U.K.
McKee said the award made her feel “very British and very patriotic as well as grateful for the support of so many friends and colleagues along the way. After a 30-year career in retail, you value the people, the players, and the talent around you so much. It’s always about the team.
“There’s still so much more to do and so much to work to get done. I feel like I am still at the beginning, very passionate, and nowhere near the end.”
For her meeting with the king on Wednesday, McKee wore a dress and coat specially made by Emilia Wickstead; Malone Souliers lace pumps; and vintage Cartier pearls.
McKee is a partner at the venture firm Fernbrook Capital Management, and sits on the boards of Aston Martin; ecommerce tech company ESW; and The Webster.
She started her career at Estée Lauder in Europe, and later joined Harrods as the head of its beauty department. She was promoted to chief merchant in 2010. In 2013, McKee was named president of Saks Fifth Avenue and relocated to New York.
In 2015, after leaving Saks, McKee formed the consultancy firm MM Luxe Consulting to deliver strategic retail advisory services to clients.
That same year she joined fellow industry figures Glenda Bailey, Tommy Hilfiger and Silas Chou in raising more than 100,000 pounds for Britain’s Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection, which is overseen by the independent charity Historic Royal Palaces.
The fundraiser took place at Kensington Palace with Prince and Princess Michael of Kent, and Britain’s former First Lady Samantha Cameron, in attendance.
Flicking through photos of the 30 objects competing for the next Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, it’s often difficult to decipher the end use, the material employed — and in some cases, if one might be looking at living, organic compounds.
Unexpected forms and a “sense of playfulness and surprise” characterize many of the entries for the 2023 edition, which encompass ceramics, woodworking, textiles, furniture, paper, basket-making, glass, metal, jewelry lacquer, leather and bookbinding.
A panel of experts whittled down the finalists from 2,700 entries from 117 different countries.
Anatxu Zabalbeascoa, a design journalist and executive secretary of the experts panel, said, “We are happy to have been able to further expose the notion of craft with artistic ambition by analyzing non-western canon aesthetics as well as by approaching figurative craft.”
The winner, who receives 50,000 euros, is to be revealed on May 16 at The Noguchi Museum in New York. All 30 shortlisted works will go on display in Isamu Noguchi’s studio from May 17 until June 18.
Among the 13 jury members who will select the prize are Abraham Thomas, curator of modern architecture, design and decorative arts at the Metropolitan Museum of Art; architects Benedetta Tagliabue, Patricia Urquiola and Wang Shu; ceramicist Magdalene Odundo, and Olivier Gabet, director of the art department at the Louvre Museum.
Established in 2016, the annual craft prize is the brainchild of Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson and is a tribute to the Spanish house’s roots as a collective craft workshop in 1846.
Anderson has long been a fan of craft, and the prize exalts “excellence, artistic merit and innovation in modern craftsmanship,” according to Loewe.
In previous years, the prize ceremony has been held at the Colegio Oficial de Arquitectos de Madrid, The Design Museum in London and the Sogetsu Kaikan in Tokyo. During the pandemic, one edition was held digitally in a joint presentation with Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and at the Seoul Museum of Craft Art.
This sixth edition offers examples of time-intensive techniques, skillful manipulation of materials and the surprise of trompe l’oeil.
“Many of the works presented in this year’s shortlist also examine the relationship between light, material and surface, with an expert handling of materials and form used to transform the reflective properties of the works and to create a sense of movement,” Loewe noted.
LIM’S NEW YORK TRIBUTE: To celebrate New York Fashion Week, Phillip Lim is opening the doors of an immersive gallery experience, “A New York City Vibration,” to the public at the Lower East Side’s 199 Chrystie Street this weekend. The pop-up gallery serves as Lim’s second chapter of the brand’s overarching ode to New York City titled “Someday, Somehow, Somewhere,” which began within his pre-fall collection and is expanding into fall 2023.
“The last several collections have been an ode to New York. The goal is to show potentially in September, but until then, I want to do a stream of events that really are rooted in what is quintessential New York — thinking about what is New York, what’s special about it,” Lim told WWD about his decision to create a community-driven gallery boasting creative partnerships and collaborations.
“Let’s take what we do, but not have the clothes front and center and instead invite an artist that’s not from the fashion world to take the liberties and lens it in a way that they would see through their eyes as context to New York City, hence the name of the activation. For me, I’m always trying to look for new angles — selfishly to inspire myself, because it’s dangerous right now as we get back into doing the same old things of putting out collections — so I wanted to do an event that felt experimental.”
To lens the fall collection (which will be featured within the space through a collaged series of printed photographs and an immersive video projection anchored by large-scale prints), Lim tapped Japanese New York-based photographer Jiro Konami, whose works span from portrait studies to cityscapes with bright light flares and hues. “Konami’s collaboration with 3.1 Phillip Lim will showcase humanity, atmospheric elements and a distillation of the essence of the New York spirit — an immersive, emotional visual display,” a statement from the brand said.
“Jiro is an amazing photographer who I have wanted to work with forever. He captures really ephemeral moments of the city he calls home, which is perfect, because what we’re trying to do, too, is search for that vibration or new ideas and tension to bring out new conversations. I’m handing the collection over to him, he’s going to lens it and has 100 percent liberty,” Lim explained, adding the projection will feature a custom soundtrack of New York City-centric sounds “digitized into contemporary ambience” by Brooklyn-based producer Jon Jung of IT-XPO.
The activation will begin Friday evening with a private viewing for the brand’s community, VIP and media, followed by a public opening Saturday through Sunday (with exhibition details slated to launch on the brand’s website Thursday). The weekend event is presented in partnership with Farfetch Group’s Farfetch Platform Solutions, which has been Lim’s technology partner to power his brand’s e-commerce, digital marketing and global operations since 2019, as well as Seedlip, Johnnie Walker and Tanqueray.
“When most people think of Farfetch.com, it’s for the Marketplace, but we also have this b-to-b business unit, which is Farfetch Platform Solutions, where we take our platform we’ve built for the marketplace and white label it out for brands and retailers. Phillip Lim has always been a great partner of ours — it was about taking what they had built for the U.S. market and growing that international presence with our global logistics and looking at us as thought partners for how we expand that relationship,” Kelly Kowal, chief platform officer of Farfetch, told WWD.
“For us, this event was a way to express the partnership of how we work together. We’ve been long-standing partners and it really is bringing experience to real life. The way they think about their customer base — how they give a global experience in-store and online — so it made sense for us to do something together in this event space of bringing that technical and digital together in real life.”
Lim said the event certainly is not “a soulless marketing activation,” but rather a way to bring his community, as well as new demographics of people and partnerships, together while “cementing and confirming why we love to live here and are proud to be a NYC brand.” — EMILY MERCER
STAPLE HITS THE ICE: Staple and the New York Rangers are teaming up again for a capsule collection.
The streetwear brand and NHL team have joined forces for their second collaboration to highlight New York City bodegas and the team’s mantra of “No Quit in New York.” The capsule collection includes apparel like T-shirts, hoodies, polos, crewnecks, bomber jackets and accessories.
“New York City is world-renowned for its ‘no quit’ mindset,” said Staple founder Jeff Staple. “This has influenced its sports teams, my own Staple brand and even icons like your local bodegas. We all hustle 24 hours a day, seven days a week. We wanted to bring that same boundless energy to our second collaboration with the legendary New York Rangers and celebrate two of New York City’s classic institutions. It’s an honor to work with my hometown team to create this special collection.”
The collection looked to New York City bodegas by taking inspiration from “bodega essentials” like ATMs, neon signs, flower bouquets and bags of ice. The pieces also incorporate the Rangers’ team colors of red, white and blue.
New York Rangers defenseman K’Andre Miller served as a creative consultant for the collection, working with Staple to design a custom T-shirt and jacket.
“Feeding off the success of last year’s collaboration, we are excited to partner with Staple on an even bigger and better collection this season,” said David Hopkinson, president and chief operating officer at Madison Square Garden Sports Corp. “We are consistently looking for ways to elevate our merchandise beyond traditional sports apparel, and Staple’s unique designs and strong history within the streetwear industry make this partnership a perfect fit.”
The Staple x The New York Rangers collection, which is presented by Chase, will be available starting Friday at Madison Square Garden and its website. Prices range from $45 to $150. — LAYLA ILCHI
NEW ROLE: Suzanne Anderson has been named president of Kerri Rosenthal, a luxury lifestyle brand that spans art, home decor, fashion apparel and accessories all derived from Rosenthal’s colorful and original art.
She succeeds Amanda Elias, who left the company.
In this role, Anderson will be charged with expanding the Kerri Rosenthal brand nationally and internationally through existing and new distribution channels and introducing the brand to a larger, wider community.
Anderson will be based at the company’s new corporate office in Westport, Connecticut.
Most recently, Anderson was vice president of design at Macy’s for ready-to-wear, men’s and kids’ private bands. Earlier, she was creative director at Peerless Clothing, where she spent 13 years driving the creative strategy across licensed and house brands.
“As the Kerri Rosenthal brand continues to grow, we believe that Suzanne will build upon our well-established DNA and prepare us for extensive growth,” said Kerri Rosenthal, founder and chief creative officer.
Anderson, who reports to Rosenthal, added: “I am excited to join a luxury brand that translates Kerri’s vivid art into fashion apparel and products for the home. The collection has a very elevated, sophisticated and unique beauty which I believe is missing in the market. The opportunities for growth are endless and I am excited to start this journey.”
Rosenthal’s brand has experienced rapid growth over the last six years, which included the opening of its flagship in Westport, featuring original paintings and home and apparel products as well as a selection of third-party items.
Rosenthal’s products are now available in more than 200 doors across the U.S. and Canada. Last November, the brand launched Kerri Rosenthal x Aqua, available in all Bloomingdale’s doors and online. Other collaborations in 2022 included Kerri Rosenthal x Roller Rabbit, Kerri Rosenthal x Spiritual Gangster and Kerri Rosenthal x Stripe & Stare.
The brand recently introduced a new tabletop collection, plans to open additional U.S. retail locations and is focused on adding categories within its art space. — LISA LOCKWOOD