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Those Il Makiage makeup ads are everywhere — here’s the story behind them

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Oddity Il Makiage
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Coutesy: Oddity

Oddity — the direct-to-consumer beauty and wellness platform known for its ubiquitous Il Makiage social media ads — is making money and growing in an environment that’s increasingly risky for purely digital retailers. 
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The Tel Aviv-founded company looks like it could even be preparing for an initial public offering, despite rising uncertainty in markets and the economy, experts told CNBC. 

Oddity, which is home to the Il Makiage makeup line, the Spoiled Child skin and hair care brand, and a third brand that’s in the works, declined to say whether it’s planning to go public but did reveal some of its financial metrics with CNBC. 

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Since its U.S. launch in 2018, Oddity has achieved profitability, the company said, making $380 million in gross sales in 2022. On average, its gross sales have doubled each year since 2018, the company added.

In Spoiled Child’s first year on the market, the new brand brought in $48 million in gross sales. Oddity declined to share its return rate; its gross sales total does not include returns. 

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Despite the high cost of customer acquisition for most DTC retailers, Oddity says it is making money the first time a customer buys a product, not just in repeat sales, and it boasts more than 40 million users.

The business, which is as much of a tech company as it is a beauty and wellness company, is seeking to disrupt a market long dominated by legacy retailers by replacing the in-store experience with product recommendations driven by artificial intelligence and data. 

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“How is it possible that this beauty customer is spending all of her time online, on Insta, on YouTube, getting education, inspiration, but then ultimately transacting in stores?” said Lindsay Drucker Mann, Oddity’s global chief financial officer. “It’s not that she wants to go to the store, it’s that she needs help. She needs help choosing, she needs recommendations.” 

And that’s where Oddity comes in.

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How Oddity does it

Launched in 2018 by brother and sister duo Oran Holtzman and Shiran Holtzman-Erel, the heart of Oddity’s business model is its proprietary technology — including tech developed by a former Israeli defense official — and the billions of data points it has collected from its millions of users. 

A digitally native, purely DTC company, the retailer underscores that 40% of its workers are technologists and no one on staff come from the beauty and wellness industry. 

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Instead of creating products that customers would need to try in a store, Oddity uses data and AI to make tailored product recommendations for clients. What’s more, it plans to use these same tools to build numerous new brands in the future.

Oddity’s first brand, Il Makiage, works to select the “perfect” foundation match for any skin type with its “powermatch quiz,” which is an AI-powered product recommendation algorithm, the company says. The quiz takes customers through a series of questions about their skin type and tone and then scans a picture of their face to figure out the right shade. 

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The company insists the algorithm works — and says it gets the shade right more than 90% of the time.

“If it did not work, we would have tons of returns, no repeats, and the economic model would fall upside down,” said Drucker Mann.

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Oddity builds out new products and brands by using its tech to figure out what customers are looking for. Then it goes to its suppliers, which also serve the legacy beauty community. 

“We go to our suppliers with like, super specific product briefs on ‘we want you to create x’… based on all the data that we’ve looked at,” Drucker Mann explained. “We’re actually going a layer deeper into specific product attributes that will matter to the customer.” 

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The company said it doesn’t share its data with its suppliers.

In 2021, the company acquired Voyage81, a deep tech AI-based computational imaging startup founded in 2019 by Niv Price, the former head of research and development for one of the Israeli Defense Forces’ elite technological units, Dr. Boaz Arad, Dr. Rafi Gidron and Omer Shwartz.

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The tech is capable of mapping and analyzing skin and hair features, detecting facial blood flows, and creating melanin and hemoglobin maps using a regular smartphone camera. 

Oddity is in the process of integrating the tech into its Il Makiage powermatch quiz to improve accuracy. They claim one day it “could replace a dermatologist’s eyes.”

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Reading the tea leaves 

Over the last year and a half, Oddity has made a series of moves that indicate it could be preparing for an IPO. 

In 2021, it tapped Drucker Mann, a former Goldman Sachs executive, to be its global chief financial officer. She spent more than 16 years with the Wall Street giant, most recently as its head of consumer and consumer-technology equity capital markets in the U.S. 

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In the role, she took many businesses public and helped others that were trying to go public. She also led public and private equity financing for consumer and technology companies, including IPOs, follow-on offerings and private placements. 

Oddity SpoiledChild

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Courtesy: Oddity

Later, in January 2022, Oddity brought in $130 million from investors such as Franklin Templeton and Fidelity Management, at a $1.5 billion valuation. Prior to that, the only outside investor Oddity brought in was private equity powerhouse L Catterton, which helped fund the company’s U.S. launch. 

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Later that year, it announced the offering of a so-called security token, which would convert into a share of stock in an eventual IPO at a 20% discount to the opening price. 

“The CFO hire that was, I think, definitely a positive sign for an IPO, it’s something we look for in IPO candidates,” said Matthew Kennedy, a senior IPO market strategist for Renaissance Capital. “If the growth was good in 2022, then I’d say they’re firing on all cylinders and seems like they could be well poised to go public.”

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He pointed to Oddity’s token offering as further evidence the company could soon have a public stock ticker. 

“An IPO has clearly been on their mind,” he said. “Companies that are not considering an IPO don’t issue a press release saying that tokens will convert at the time of an IPO.”

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Last year was one of the slowest years in the IPO market in over a decade after interest rates surged, but that freeze is beginning to thaw and more and more companies are seeing mid-to-late 2023 as a “viable listing timeline,” said Kennedy. 

In his work at Renaissance Capital, Kennedy tracks every initial filing for the firm’s clients. Usually he looks for companies that have over $100 million in sales and the ability to be profitable within a few years of going public.

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“Oddity is not one we had been tracking,” he said. “But I think we’ll keep an eye on it now.” 

‘We do see fads come and go’

In some ways, Oddity’s brands are reminiscent of the buzzy hair care line Olaplex, a technology-driven beauty company that had rapid growth at the time of its IPO only to see its stock plummet after it failed to reverse plunging sales.

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If Oddity decides to go public, it will need to show investors it can sustain its rapid growth over time and not fade away as a fad. 

“I think the biggest risk is that they are growing off of this initial hype and consumer preferences can change rapidly and we do see fads come and go,” said Kennedy. 

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Nikki Baird, a longtime retail analyst and current vice president of strategy at retail technology company Aptos, said DTC brands need to strike the right product mix in order to stay relevant, sustain growth and attract investors. 

“The DTC challenge and where lots of brands struggle is, you have this founder that has this one great idea for this product or they found some nut on some unique tree in Brazil that they’re bringing to market through their skin care product,” said Baird. “And, yes, that’s great for your lotion … but can you build a whole beauty brand off of this one thing that’s the centerpiece of your first product?” 

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Oddity says it’s ready for the challenge – and thinking even bigger. 

“I believe what emerges from this moment will be the platforms of the future, right? I think right now we’re cementing those winners,” Drucker Mann said. “And, in my view, for Oddity, we are really creating the next generation, one of the most important consumer companies truly of our lifetime.” 

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GameStop stock soars after retailer posts first quarterly profit in two years

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GameStop posts first quarterly profit in two years, shares surge
GameStop on Tuesday posted a quarterly profit for the first time in two years, finishing out its fiscal year on a high note in the holiday quarter after grappling with sales declines, inventory woes and cash flow pressure.

Shares of the company soared more than 45% during after-hours trading.

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For the quarter ended Jan. 28, net sales dropped slightly to $2.23 billion from $2.25 billion in last year’s fourth quarter. The video game retailer also posted a profit of $48.2 million, or 16 cents a share, compared to a loss of $147.5 million, or 49 cents, a year ago.

GameStop did not provide financial guidance and has not done so since the early days of the pandemic. Its results can’t be compared with Wall Street estimates because too few analysts cover the company.

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The retailer had been working to steer itself back to profitability, and got there in part by cutting costs. Selling, general and administrative expenses came in at $453.4 million for the quarter, or 20.4% of sales, compared to $538.9 million, or 23.9% of sales, in the year-earlier period.

A GameStop store operates in a strip mall on March 16, 2023 in Chicago, Illinois.
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CEO Matt Furlong said on an investor call the company is going into 2023 with further plans to cut excess costs including in European markets, where it has already exited and begun to pull out of some countries. He said that GameStop is also considering bolstering its business with higher margin categories such as toys.

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GameStop had previously been riding some short-term, meme-stock momentum, but that has since leveled out and the company has made progress in right-sizing its business by cleaning up its inventory levels and reworking its cost structure.

The stock closed trading on Tuesday at around $18 per share, down dramatically from its 52-week high of nearly $50 about a year ago.

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GameStop’s turnaround plan was reinvigorated by a leadership shake-up in 2021 that put Furlong, an Amazon veteran, at the helm and added Ryan Cohen, Chewy founder and former Bed Bath & Beyond activist investor, as board chair. The company also laid off staff and replaced its chief financial officer.

The retailer has been working to revamp its real estate portfolio and increase its online business as the video game industry heads in that direction.

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For the full fiscal year, GameStop saw $5.93 billion in sales, down slightly from $6.01 billion in fiscal 2021, and saw increased revenues from its collectibles category, which the retailer is banking will promote long-term growth.

Like many retailers, GameStop experienced supply chain delays that left it with a backlog of inventory after it previously tried to meet high demand. The company is still hanging on to $682.9 million in inventory, which is down from $915 million a year ago, according to its fourth-quarter balance sheet.

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As part of its revival strategy, GameStop also has been trying to improve its cash balance. This quarter, its cash and cash equivalents were $1.39 billion.

While managing the burdens of its brick-and-mortar presence, the company has also been working to find its digital identity. So far, those experiments have come with a few missteps.

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In September, it launched an ill-fated partnership with the now-bankrupt crypto exchange FTX. The companies had planned to collaborate on e-commerce marketing and GameStop was going to sell FTX gift cards in its stores. Two months later, GameStop tweeted that it would be “winding down” the partnership and refunding anyone who had purchased an FTX gift card in its stores.

In addition, the company has been experimenting with an NFT marketplace since July. That launch came amid chatter of a “crypto winter” as cryptocurrencies experienced a widespread cooldown from their 2021 rallies. The marketplace saw an initial volume surge but has since leveled off and may not be the ticket to a stable digital presence the company had hoped it would be.

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Still, Furlong said on a call with investors that compared to 2021, when many “predicted we were heading for bankruptcy,” the company is better positioned.

“GameStop is a much healthier business today than it was at the start of 2021,” he said.

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Nike’s holiday quarter plagued by bloated inventory, weak China sales

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People wearing protective face masks walk past the closed Nike store on 5th Avenue, during the outbreak of the coronavirus disease (COVID-19), in New York City, May 11, 2020.
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Mike Segar | Reuters

Nike easily beat Wall Street’s expectations for its holiday quarter earnings and revenue, though its bloated inventory continued to weigh on its margins and China sales fell short of expectations.
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Nike, like other retailers, has been in the process of offloading a glut of inventory brought on by supply chain disruptions and shifting consumer demands that’s been weighing on its margins.

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Gross margins were down to 43.3% for the quarter, a decrease of 3.3 percentage points, due to higher markdowns and promotions its used to liquidate its inventory.

While Nike CEO John Donahoe told investors last quarter he believes the company is past its inventory peak, the company warned gross margins were expected to take a hit during the holiday quarter.

Inventories were up 16% compared with the year ago period at $8.9 billion, which the company attributed to higher product input costs and elevated freight expenses.

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Here’s how the sneaker giant performed in its third fiscal quarter of 2023 compared with what Wall Street was anticipating, based on a survey of analysts by Refinitiv:

  • Earnings per share: 79 cents vs. 55 cents expected
  • Revenue: $12.39 billion vs. $11.47 billion expected

The company’s reported net income for the three-month period that ended Feb. 28 was $1.2 billion, or 79 cents per share, compared with $1.4 billion, or 87 cents per share, a year earlier.

Sales rose to $12.39 billion, up 14% from $10.87 billion a year earlier.

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Nike has been looking to see a sales rebound in China, its third-biggest market by revenue, as the region recovers from the Covid pandemic. But those hopes failed to materialize. Sales were down 8% in the region during the third quarter to $1.99 billion, despite the end of China’s zero-Covid policy that had weighed on operations.

Wall Street analysts had anticipated sales in the region of $2.09 billion, according to StreetAccount estimates.

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Sales in China have been soft as consumers contended with sweeping lockdowns and rising infections. While some activity has begun to pick back up, consumers aren’t back to pre-pandemic shopping levels just yet, according to a Citi research note.

Outside China, Nike saw double-digit sales increases in all of its other markets. Sales in North America were up 27% and in Europe, Middle East and Africa, revenue jumped 17% compared with the year-ago period. In Asia Pacific and Latin America, sales were up 10%.

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A lot of money is on the line for women’s pro soccer in the U.S.

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OL Reign forward Sofia Huerta (11) and Portland Thorns FC forward Sophia Smith (9) battle for the ball during a NWSL match between the Portland Thorns and the OL Reign on March 18, 2022 at Lumen Field in Seattle, WA.
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Jeff Halstead | Icon Sportswire | Getty Images

The National Women’s Soccer League’s eleventh season kicks off Saturday, and investors will be paying close attention to the league to see whether it can capitalize on all of the changes that Commissioner Jessica Berman made during her first year on the job.
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Last year was transformative for women’s professional soccer, as Berman took the helm of an organization that had been plagued with problems ranging from accusations of emotional and sexual abuse and sexism, and an overall lack of confidence in the league.

The NWSL hired Berman, who was a labor lawyer at Proskauer Rose for 13 years, in March 2022, from her role as deputy commissioner of the Premier Lacrosse League. Her biggest priorities? Restore faith in women’s soccer and grow the business.

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Since then, the commissioner has made changes to not only drastically transform the culture of the league but also supersize the business through its infrastructure, staffing and rules. Sports Business Journal named her the “Best Hire of the Year” for 2022. 

It’s all led to a pivotal moment for the league, as it looks to add more teams and its media deal is up for grabs. Then, this summer, the FIFA Women’s World Cup will put the league’s talent on display – about 25% to 30% of NWSL’s players will travel to Australia and New Zealand for the tournament.

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At the moment, the league has momentum. Berman told reporters Tuesday that business is strong and ticket sales are rising.

“Attendance and ticket sales are really the rocket fuel that will grow this league,” she said. “We’re up 20% in season ticket holders on a league-wide basis.”

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Building on a strong year

More than 1 million fans attended matches last year, the league said, as nearly every market grew following the pandemic. Attendance was up about 80% in 2022, while ticketing revenue grew more than 125%, according to NWSL.

Sponsorship revenue also surged 87% last year, Berman said. The league averaged 37 sponsorship deals per team, which is more than any other women’s sport, according to sports data and intelligence platform Sponsor United. The league also plans to expand to 14 teams from 12 beginning next year.

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The NWSL just signed a deal to bring soccer back to Utah with a new ownership group in a deal reportedly worth between $2 million and $5 million, a major bargain that had been part of a deal negotiated in 2020, before team valuations started to soar.

The league is also in advanced discussions to further expand in San Francisco for 2024, followed by Boston, which is launching “later,” both with a whopping $50 million franchise tag, according to The Wall Street Journal.

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Women’s pro soccer valuations are also soaring. It used to take a few million dollars to get in on the league. Today, Angel City FC, based in Los Angeles, is valued at $100 million, according to Sportico.

NWSL commissioner Jessica Berman speaks during the 2023 NWSL Draft at the Pennsylvania Convention Center on January 12, 2023 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. (Photo by Tim Nwachukwu/Getty Images)

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Athletes, celebrities and investors all want a piece of the action. Big name investors include everyone from Eli Manning, Kevin Durant, Sue Bird, Natalie Portman and Jennifer Garner.

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“I think, if anything that we’ve learned in the last 11 months, which is that the market will tell us our value so long as we give it the appropriate opportunity to produce that value. And everything that I’ve seen, has validated that,” Berman said.

The league is busy looking for new ownership groups in Chicago and Portland after a yearlong investigation. Portland Thorns owner Merritt Paulson and Chicago Red Stars owner Arnim Whisler both announced in December, they would be selling their teams.

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Berman said the vetting stages for new ownership groups in Chicago and Portland are in “advanced stages,” and they aren’t going to set an “artificial deadline.” She said it’s about putting the right person in place who is not just well resourced but also willing to invest in the club to provide a professional environment.

“The old ways of doing business are probably no longer applicable,” Berman said. “We’re not going to close deals in 30 to 60 days. We’re dealing with really sophisticated people who appropriately have questions,” she added.

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Berman says they are not looking for the quick win when it comes to ownership, rather finding the right partner.

“We’re looking to go from a mentality of surviving to thriving,” she said. “I think all of that requires a changes in mentality, culture and expectations.”

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As part of that transformation, Berman and the league are investing heavily.

The league recently moved its headquarters to Madison Avenue in New York from Chicago. It is also beefing up staff, doubling the number of people in the league office in order to support all the new initiatives they are working on. Berman said multiple teams have doubled or tripled their investment into staffing as well.

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“These little things actually matter in terms of having people feel professional and valued,” she said.

In January, ahead of the NWSL draft, Berman outlined major updates to the salary cap. Each team will see a 25% increase from $1.1 million per year in 2022 to $1.375 million in 2023.

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Media deal up for grabs

Viewership for NWSL matches also rose 30% last year on Paramount +.

Last year’s championship, which aired in primetime thanks to sponsor Ally Financial upping its financial commitment, was the most-watched game in league history, with a 71% increase in viewership. Paramount+ said it was the most streamed NWSL matched ever, even though it was up against Game 1 of the World Series and a college football game between rivals Michigan and Michigan State.

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These metrics should come in handy as the league’s three-year, $4.5 million deal with Paramount Global, which also owns CBS, is set to expire at the end of the new season.

Berman said she’s had robust conversations about the rights, and said there are several interested parties.

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“We think that there are some really interesting opportunities here and overseas to consider as we think about growing our brand globally and really claiming our space as the best league in the world,” she said.

The league also announced a recent partnership with EA Sports to feature NWSL players and clubs in EA Sports FIFA game for the first time ahead of a new season.

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Culture change

OL Reign forward Megan Rapinoe (15) scores on a penalty kick during the second half of the National Womens Soccer League game between NJ/NY Gotham FC and OL Reign on September 21, 2022 at Red Bull Arena in Harrison, New Jersey.

Rich Graessle | Icon Sportswire | Getty Images

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The NWSL’s culture is under the microscope, as well.

The league is implementing major reforms – from new mandatory training sessions, the addition of anonymous hotlines, player surveys, safety officers, mental health benefits and more.

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The league was involved in a yearlong investigation after two former players came forward and accused longtime coach Paul Riley of sexual harassment. Sally Yates, a former top Justice Department official, conducted her own investigation, as well. The reports confirmed the allegations of systemic abuse, sexual misconduct and found “widespread misconduct” in more than half of the league’s teams.

Berman took swift action following the findings, making changes in personnel, putting new infrastructure in place to prevent future problems and issuing massive fines to the offending teams. The NWSL permanently banned Riley and three other coaches who were accused of misconduct. Riley has denied the accusations.

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“The teams are really welcoming of the increased focus and support in this area knowing that it is really sort of table stakes as we think about the growth of the league,” Berman said.

Berman spent much of her first year as commissioner on a “listening tour,” meeting with players, coaches and executives to hear “first-hand experiences” and what needs to change.

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Today, Berman hopes the new changes and protections will position the league for success.

Berman said she’s heard from players that they are tired from the burdens of having to carry some of weight of culture challenges and reforms.

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“I think it’s their hope that we the league and through ownership and management can really take on the burden and work behind the scenes to offer the playing environment that meets the standard that I’ve committed to, which is a place that makes the players proud to play,” Berman said.

Reports finds systemic abuse in women's professional soccer league



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